I spent four years studying in St Andrews, Scotland. Well, actually 2 and a bit thanks to Covid. But long enough to know the ins and outs of this little Scottish town famous for its golf courses, beaches, ice cream, and fish and chips. Look no further for a complete guide on how to get there, activities, food, drink, and shopping.
Getting There
I am going to preface this by saying that St Andrews is not easy to get to. The closest airport is Edinburgh, an hour and a half drive away, or between 2 and 3 hours taking buses and trains. The most convenient way is by car, but if that isn’t an option for you or you’re looking to do it more sustainably, here is how to use public transport from the Edinburgh airport and the centre of Edinburgh. Once you’re in the town, you will probably be glad you don’t have to figure out where to park, and buses will take you anywhere you can’t walk (which is most places!).
The Old Course
From the Airport: Option 1: Buses
Edinburgh Airport is very well serviced by public transport. Once you exit the arrivals hall, look for the 747 bus. Get on this, and in 25-30 minutes you will be at Halbeath Park and Ride. This is a big bus crossroads in Fife, and all the buses to St Andrews go through here. The Stagecoach X59 will take you to St Andrews directly and is the fastest option, or you can take the X54 and change in Glenrothes to the X24, which is slightly slower (your maps app will probably not show you the latter option, but trust me, it exists!). You might see the X60 or the X58 with signs for St Andrews, but these add at least another hour to the trip, so avoid them if possible. You can buy the bus tickets when you get on the bus, just tell the driver where you want to go. Top tip: it is often cheaper to get a return ticket even if you don't use it! Beware that these buses do not go late into the night, you will have to take the X59A and change in Glenrothes, which is a hassle. If you are arriving late, I recommend the next option.
From the Airport: Option 2: Bus/Tram - Train - Bus
This second option is the fastest without a car. Again, outside the arrivals area you will see both a Tram and the Airlink 100 bus. Either work for this, I personally take the bus as it’s free in Scotland for residents under 22 years old, but I’ve heard great things about the tram too. Either way, you will get off the bus/tram at Haymarket Station. From here, take the Scotrail train to Leuchars. You can buy tickets at the station or online, I recommend the Trainline app/website. An hour and a bit later, you will arrive at Leuchars station. From here, the 99 bus comes every 10 minutes or so. When you get on, tell the driver you want to go to St Andrews, and you’ll get there in about 10 minutes.
Sunrise at East Sands
From the Centre of Edinburgh: Option 1: Bus
From the Edinburgh Bus Station, you can get on the X59 or X59A to St Andrews. They go every hour.
From the Centre of Edinburgh: Option 2: Train - Bus
Take the train from Edinburgh Waverley, located in the middle of Princes Street, the main shopping/activity street in the city. You want to get off at Leuchars station. Then the rest follows as above: you can buy tickets at the station or online, I recommend the Trainline app/website. An hour and a bit later, you will arrive at Leuchars station. From here, the 99 bus comes every 10 minutes or so. When you get on, tell the driver you want to go to St Andrews, and you’ll get there in about 10 minutes.
Note that the buses are often delayed, especially the ones at the end of the day, so be prepared for that. Trains are probably more reliable, but make sure they aren’t striking!
The Castle Course
Taxis
If you want to make your trip really easy, a taxi is a good option. You'll definitely want to book one in advance, and beware that this will cost you between £90 and £120 from Edinburgh, and will be £150 late at night or early in the morning. If, by chance, you are visiting around the start of the University term time, try and book the St Andrews Shuttle. It's a really great service and only costs you £30 for a shared transfer. If you book a private one, you'll be back up to the taxi prices.
Booking Hotels
St Andrews has loads of hotels, BnBs, and AirBnbs to stay in. However, please please check that there is not a golf tournament going on when you want to visit! Or that the University graduation is not that week (mid-June)! Everywhere gets booked up incredibly fast and the prices go skyrocketing. I had trouble finding a room for my family to come for my graduation 9 months before the actual date. I am not exaggerating, I actually cannot emphasise this enough! It’s a small town so book a place to stay EARLY. The same goes for restaurants, but we’ll get to that below.
As I was a student in St Andrews, I had my own accommodation. However, my family and friends have stayed at the following and can highly recommend:
Hotel du Vin
The Fairmont (slightly out of town but they have a complimentary shuttle)
Rusacks
Ardgowan
On a Pier Walk
Budget
Now seems like a good time to mention that St Andrews is a very expensive town. Allegedly, the Tesco on Market Street is the second most expensive Tesco in the UK (after one in Edinburgh), and I believe it. There are not a lot of budget-friendly accommodation options, and most restaurants are also pricey. There are cheaper places to eat, but please be prepared. Luckily, most things to do in St Andrews are free (apart from playing golf, that will set you back!).
West Sands Beach
Things to do in St Andrews
Most people think there isn’t much to do in St Andrews if you don’t play golf, but here is some evidence to prove them wrong!
The Beaches and The Harbour
St Andrews has three beaches: West Sands, East Sands, and Castle Sands. West Sands is famous for being used in the opening scene of Chariots of Fire, where they all run along a beach to the well-known theme tune. It’s the best beach for walking as it’s really long and wide, especially at low tide. The views back on the town are also stunning from here.
West Sands Beach
East Sands is located right by the harbour and pier, one of the most scenic spots in St Andrews. Walking along the pier is a tradition for St Andrews students, so you’ll probably see pictures and paintings around town of students in red robes on the Pier Walk. Fun fact: the pier is made out of the stones from the ruined Cathedral in town! I think that’s pretty cool.
The Harbour from the Pier at East Sands, with the Cathedral in the background
Castle Sands is very picturesque, situated right by the ruins of the Castle. It is inaccessible at high tide, but from the street level it is very pretty to look at.
Castle Sands and the Castle
The Castle and Cathedral
As I’ve mentioned above, the Castle and Cathedral are in ruins, but they are really cool to walk around. Walking in the grounds of the Cathedral is free, but you’ll have to pay to get entry into the Castle.
The Castle
Walking Around Town
The town is mainly centred around three streets: North Street, Market Street, and South Street. In my opinion, Market and South are the prettiest, especially if you head to the end of Market street towards the Cathedral. Hope Street (off Market at the end of the Bus Station) is also beautiful. If you are interested in the Royal Family, Kate and Will’s apartment was on Hope Street.
At the end of Market Street
Shopping
There are loads of cute, independent shops in St Andrews. If you’re looking for a bookstore, Topping is my favourite! They have four shops around England and Scotland, and one of them is in St Andrews. I absolutely love it in there and can never leave without buying something.
Topping
Bonkers, Gift Gallery, Embrace Life, and J&G Innes are my favourites. But look into them all as each one has something different. St Andrews also has a huge charity shop scene, last I counted there were 7, which is completely out of proportion for the size of the town! Nevertheless, you might get lucky in one of them, especially if you go around May, as that’s when students leave town and offload half of their clothes onto the charity shops. I have found some gems!
Pier Walk
St Salvator’s Quad
Known as Sallies Quad, St Salvator’s is the main university quad. The chapel is there and it's stunning, so I’d recommend taking a look. At the entrance you might see a PH on the ground in the cobblestones - don’t step on it! It’s a student tradition that you’ll fail your exams if you do! Not sure how it works for visitors, but worth keeping in mind…
Sallies Quad at the beginning of a Pier Walk
Walk Lade Braes and Craigtoun Country Park
Lade Braes is a lovely walk through the forest, alongside the Kinnesburn (river). It provides a nice change from walking on the beach, and is really pretty. If you have time, keep walking and follow the signs to Craigtoun Country Park. It will take you an hour and a half to walk there, but the scenery along the way is beautiful. The Park itself is also fun, with cafés, open spaces, a lake, trampoline park, and more. If you have a car, driving to the park is also an option.
Lade Braes
Craigtoun Country Park
St Andrews Botanic Gardens
The botanic gardens here are small but very pretty. It’s really peaceful to walk around and look at all the different ecosystems they have going there! They also have a statue of the Gruffalo, so if you ever read that children’s book, that’s fun to see.
The Fife Coastal Path
If you want a really long walk, do the Fife Coastal Path. You can walk it to Crail or Anstruther, two pretty fishing towns. It’s a stunning walk (has to be done at low tide!) but to Anstruther it’s 33km so no easy feat. You’ll need some good walking shoes too. See my post on walking that section of the path here.
From the Fife Coastal Path
Golf
I have to mention the golf at St Andrews, as it’s the main attraction for most people. Even if you don’t play, visit the 18th hole of the Old Course and the Swilcan Bridge. It’s right by the entrance of West Sands; you can’t miss it. The Old Course was the first golf course in the world and St Andrews is known as the Home of Golf. The course is closed on Sundays, so you can walk around on it as much as you like. Playing golf requires a whole other logistical process, so follow the instructions on the Links website here.
The Swilcan Bridge on the 18th Hole of the Old Course
Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem, and Elie
If you have an extra day, visit the other towns on the Fife coast. These four are extremely picturesque, with beautiful harbours, cute cafés, and beaches. The ice cream parlours and fish and chip shops opposite the harbour in Anstruther are Fife-famous, and I’d recommend treating yourself!
Crail and Anstruther
If you are in Anstruther between April and July, I would recommend taking a boat tour out to the Isle of May where you can see puffins (and maybe some seals if you’re lucky)! There are so many of them and it is an incredible experience. David Attenborough himself has been and allegedly said that it is one of the best bird spectacles he’s ever seen in his life. And that’s coming from David Attenborough, who has probably seen every bird spectacle there is to see. So that’s saying something.
Puffins and Seals on the Isle of May
Food in St Andrews
There are so many restaurants in St Andrews, so you’ll never go hungry. I will have missed some off this list, but these are my thoughts and opinions! For almost all of these, you will need to book in advance, especially if you are visiting during the summer or a busy period. Reservations get snatched up 6 months in advance for some places, as I discovered when trying to find a place for my graduation dinner!
Polo on West Sands
Italian
For Italian food, Lupo’s and Little Italy are the best. Little Italy has good food, but they don’t treat their staff well at all, so I tend to avoid it. It’s also really hard to get a booking there, so if you do want to go, book early! Lupo’s is lesser known but also really nice and a much less hectic environment.
Pizza
We have three main sit-down pizza places in town: Pizza Express, Zizzi’s, and Mozza. I prefer Mozza as it’s most local and isn’t a huge chain restaurant like the other two. The pizzas there are also incredible, and much cheaper than at Pizza Express or Zizzi’s. Mozza is also vegan friendly!
Sunrise at East Sands
Thai
Tanon has insanely good Thai food. It’s currently a pop-up restaurant (the original burned down) but it doesn’t seem like it at all. I highly recommend it.
Indian
St Andrews has two main Indian places: Maisha and Jahangir. Both have amazing food, but I tend to prefer Jahangir because the waiters are incredibly friendly and efficient. Don’t be put off by the mannequin in the window!
Other Asian Cuisines
Oppa has delicious Korean food. It is more of a place for walking in, and it only has 5 tables, so it’s hard to get one, especially around peak mealtimes. However, it’s worth the wait. You can also order takeaway from here.
Combini is a great Japanese-Korean place on South Street where you can grab a bowl to take away! There are a few seats but don't get your hopes up. It's really good food.
Fish and Chips
Because St Andrews is by the sea, it has two typical fish and chip shops: Tailend and Cromar’s. As I don’t eat fish, I’m not a good judge, but I’ve heard good things about both. If you’re looking for a classic Scottish chippy experience, definitely try one of these.
Burgers
Blackhorn has the best burgers in town. They have many veggie and vegan options too, and if a burger isn’t what you’re after, they also have amazing wraps. It’s a really casual setting but such good food, I highly recommend.
Ziggy's is also a great place for burgers and other American-style food.
Castle Sands
Other Restaurants I Love
The Bothy (formerly The Doll's House): This is a little restaurant on Church Street and it has great food. It’s a little more expensive and you’ll have to book in advance, but I cannot recommend it more. They always have a vegetarian and vegan option for main course and dessert and I have not been let down once!
The Cheesy Toast Shack: If you're looking for a quick bite, this little place on East Sands has incredible cheese toasties, including their famous Mac and Cheese toastie. They also have vegan friendly options!
My dog on West Sands
The Adamson: This is also a fancier restaurant, but the food is great. They also have amazing cocktails.
Forgan’s: This is a really popular place on Market Street which serves mostly Scottish and English traditional food.
Mitchell’s: Right next to Forgan’s on Market Street is Mitchell’s. It is a bit more casual than Forgan’s, but the food is equally as good and they have a great breakfast menu too.
Cottage Kitchen
These are some of my favourite cafés in St Andrews:
Bibi’s
North Point (a must for brunch too!)
Zest
Cottage Kitchen
Jannetta’s
A visit to St Andrews would not be complete without a trip to Jannetta’s! It is a really famous ice cream parlour and the ice cream and desserts they serve are incredible. There are so many different flavours, and they have a huge dairy-free/vegan range too.
The flavour wall at Jannetta's
Bars and Pubs in St Andrews
St Andrews is very much a pub place and most students go out to these. The liveliest nights in town (during term time) are Wednesdays and Fridays, as those are when most students go out. Bear this in mind whether you want to join or avoid! This is again by no means a comprehensive list!
The Rule: one of the most popular pubs for students, and has a lot of seating
St Andrews Brewing Co: I generally like the atmosphere in here
Brewdog: this is a Scottish chain and is a really responsible company, so I would recommend trying it out
The Vic: this is a very popular place for students, especially on Tuesday nights, when it turns into a sort of nightclub
The Criterion: I really like the aesthetics of this pub!
Molly Malone’s: an Irish pub with a homey atmosphere
The Keys Bar: this is on Market Street but beware that the regulars (local St Andrews residents) can get quite territorial. Students tend to avoid it
The Dunvegan: this is a really popular place for students and golfers in the town
The Saint: this place does amazing cocktails but I have not heard good things about the service when it’s busy!
West Sands at sunset
St Andrews is much more than the three streets! I hope you find something in here that makes your visit extra special. Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions, I'd be more than happy to help you :)
