Welcome to my complete guide for hiking to Everest Base Camp in Nepal! This was one of the most incredible things I’ve ever done, and something I’ll remember forever. I have put together a detailed itinerary, all of my advice, the things I wish I knew, a packing list, and answers to some of the questions I keep getting asked about the trip, into this blog post. I hope it inspires you to get out to Nepal and experience it for yourself.
Contents
When to Trek in Nepal
Trekking in Nepal has two high seasons: autumn (October and November) and spring (April and May). I did the trek in early October, at the start of the high season. Mountain weather is never predictable, but we were lucky to only have one day of rain out of 11 days walking, and bright sunshine for the rest of the time. It does tend to cloud up in the afternoon, but you will have completed most of the walking for the day by then. Most people aim to summit Mt Everest in May, which makes the spring an equally good time to do the EBC trek, but it is also busier and can get cloudier during this time.
Everest Base Camp Trek: Day by Day Itinerary
Here is what your 11 day trek to Everest Base Camp will look like! This is an itinerary for those flying in and out of Lukla.
Day 1
Ramechhap Airport (1218m) to Lukla (2880m) to Phakding (2650m)
Distance: ~8km
Ramechhap Airport and our little plane!
This is the easiest day of the whole trek. You’ll wake up around 1:30am to be transferred from Kathmandu to Ramechhap airport for your flight to Lukla. The flights start around 6am. Hope for good weather, because planes only fly when the runway and approach to the runway in Lukla is completely cloud-free!
Lukla Airport
On arrival in Lukla, you’ll have breakfast and then start your walk to Phakding. It is a nett-downhill trek, through towns and villages. The path is mostly paved with giant stones, and is not challenging. The greenery at this altitude is stunning, so take your time and enjoy it while you're moving slowly. You’ll check into your teahouse, have a late lunch, and have time to relax before dinner.
Some of the scenery on the way to Phakding, including your first suspension bridge!
Showers in Phakding are normally free, but don’t expect hot water! There is wifi at the teahouses, but you will have to pay for it, around 500-600 Nepalese rupees ($3.76 - $4.51).
Day 2
Phakding (2650m) to Namche Bazaar (3550m)
Distance: ~11km
Crossing the Hillary Bridge in the rain!
Today will be a very difficult day, with around1000m of vertical ascent over almost 11km. But it was such beautiful scenery, despite the rain we were unlucky enough to have! You walk along the river, into Sagarmatha National Park, through more towns and villages, and across the infamous Hillary Suspension Bridge, which is a lot of fun. It’s almost all uphill though, so be prepared. You’ll stop for lunch on the way, most likely in Monjo, to give you the energy to make the push to Namche. I have never been so happy to reach a place in my life! To this day, whenever I do a tough hike, I think about how I survived this day just to motivate myself!
Some of my favourite scenery from the trek was today, despite the clouds
Namche Bazaar is the biggest town you’ll trek through, and it is filled with tea houses, shops, and restaurants. And the world’s highest Irish pub (I recommend going on the way down so that any alcohol does not impact your acclimatisation!). The showers here were hot and free, and there are several places around town which have free wifi, including many tea houses. It is the last place with an ATM and reasonably priced trekking gear, snacks, and toiletries, so stock up if you need anything.
Day 3
Acclimatisation in Namche Bazaar (Up to 3900m)
Distance: ~2.5km
Namche in the sun
Day 3 is your first acclimatisation day. It sounds like a rest but really is not! You go straight up and straight down again, albeit over just 2.5km. We climbed to almost 3900m to a viewpoint where I got my first view of Mt Everest! It was an incredible moment that I will remember forever. We sat there for a while before heading back to Namche for lunch and to rest in the afternoon.
Looking at Mt Everest for the first time
Day 4
Namche Bazaar (3550m) to Debouche (3810m)
Distance: ~11km
Views of Everest and Lhotse on Day 4
This is another incredibly hard day. It starts nicely, with some great views of Everest, but then involves a steep descent before a massive ascent to the village of Tengboche, where the highest Buddhist Monastery in the world is located. You’ll have the opportunity to visit, which is a great experience, before heading down to Debouche to spend the night. We had the option to either eat on the way, or wait to Debouche. We opted to eat before the ascent, at around 10am, which was fine, but left us very hungry in the afternoon, waiting until dinner. Be prepared with lots of snacks!
The teahouse in Debouche was the first where you had to pay for hot showers, around 600-800 Nepalese rupees ($4.50-$6). Wifi also came at a cost, again around 500-600 Nepalese rupees ($3.76 - $4.51), and it is not very strong. I stopped paying for wifi at this point, and decided to spend the next 6 days off-grid, which was actually great.
Day 5
Debouche (3810m) to Dingboche (4410m)
Distance: ~10km
This was one of my favourite days on the trek. The views were absolutely stunning, and while it was challenging, it wasn’t as bad as some of the other days! It’s about 10 km of walking today, and, depending on your hiking speed, you’ll arrive early in the afternoon in time for lunch. We took some time to walk around the little village, where there are some shops and restaurants too.
You have to pay for showers in Dingboche, around 600-800 Nepalese rupees ($4.50-$6). I paid for one shower over the two nights here, which felt amazing. Wifi also came at a cost, again around 500-600 Nepalese rupees ($3.76 - $4.51).
Day 6
Acclimatisation in Dingboche (up to 5100m)
Distance: ~2km
Another tough but short acclimatisation hike up to Nangkartshang Peak today, which sits at 5100m. Summiting our first 5000m mountain was another big moment and provides you with a great sense of accomplishment. Everest Base Camp is less than 400m higher than where you are now, which gives you a little extra motivation too. The views along this hike were also out of this world. We then went back to Dingboche to rest during the afternoon and spend the night.
At the top of Nangkartshang (5100m)!
Day 7
Dingboche (4410m) to Lobuche (4950m)
Distance: ~6km
Despite only being 6km, this is a very challenging day. You leave Dingboche and head to Lobuche, passing through the Everest Memorial Site, a very moving experience that reminds you of how extreme an environment you are in. Again, the views are spectacular, especially from the memorial. You’ll arrive in Lobuche in time for lunch and then spend the afternoon resting. I really started to feel the altitude at this point.
Everest Memorial Site
There are very limited showers in Lobuche, and you have to pay for all of them. Don’t expect your teahouse to have one. Facilities are very basic, and you’ll likely be sharing two toilets with 50-100 other people. There is no running water or electricity in the rooms. Wifi is weak and you will have to pay a bit more for it up here, around 700-900 Nepalese rupees ($5.26 - $6.77). It gets very cold up here too, so wrap up warm for the night. But even so, try to keep the window a crack open to keep air circulating and help you breathe at night. It becomes difficult to sleep because of the altitude as well, so don’t expect to wake up rested.
View from the tea house in Lobuche
Day 8
Lobuche (4950m) to Gorak Shep (5180m) to EBC (5364m)
Distance: ~12.5km
Today is the big day! After leaving Lobuche, you’ll walk around 4.5 km to Gorak Shep, where you’ll have a very early lunch at the tea house and drop most of your things before the final push to Everest Base Camp. It will be early to eat, but you will be glad you did, because it’s a long walk to EBC and back (around 8 km round trip). This section is probably the busiest on the trail, which doesn’t make it fun, and the altitude will hit you, but it’s not a particularly challenging day. The excitement of where you’re about to be will give you an extra bit of adrenaline too!
You’ve made it to Everest Base Camp! I had some crazy emotions that day, but it was such an unbelievable moment to be standing there, looking up at the highest point on Earth. Words cannot really describe the feeling. You’ll have to queue for a photo on the famous rock (which actually changes every year because it moves with the Khumbu glacier!), but you spend around an hour just soaking it up and celebrating with your group. Surprisingly, the phone service at EBC is quite good, there were heaps of people making FaceTime calls home, which was incredible.
You can just see Mt Everest peeking out from behind!
Gorak Shep accommodation is also extremely basic, with no showers and shared, non-flushing toilets, no running water, and no electricity. Wifi again is extremely weak and you’ll have to pay more again, around 700-900 Nepalese rupees ($5.26 - $6.77). It’s also freezing up here and you’ll struggle to sleep with the altitude, not that you’re in bed long because tomorrow is an early start!
Can you tell how happy I was?!
Day 9
Gorak Shep (5180m) to Kala Patthar (5545m) to Pangboche (3980m)
Distance: ~20-25km
You’ll wake up around 4am this morning to start your hike up to Kala Patthar, for a view over Mt Everest at sunrise. It’s about 1.5km to the top, and it’s very hard. Oxygen levels in the air are about 50%, and you feel it. I was taking around 10 steps before taking a break. It took around an hour to climb these 1.5kms. But the view from the top was incredible; seeing Everest at sunrise and the sky changing colour was one of the most beautiful experiences of my life. The photo below remains my screensaver to this day.
Mt Everest at Sunrise
You’ll head back to Gorak Shep for breakfast, then start the long walk down the mountain. It’s a very long day today, almost exclusively downhill. Hiking poles and knee supports will help a lot. The typical stop is Pheriche, but we decided to push through to Pangboche because it was much quieter and the tea houses had slightly better facilities at the lower altitude. It ended up being a 25km day, including Kala Patthar, so it was exhausting.
Showers were still paid for, back to the prices of around 600-800 Nepalese rupees ($4.50-$6). However, wifi became cheaper, back to around 500-600 Nepalese rupees ($3.76 - $4.51). This is when I caved and decided to tell my family that I’d made it!
Day 10
Pangboche (3980m) to Namche Bazaar (3550m)
Distance: ~20km
This was another long day, around 20 km back to Namche Bazaar. It was much easier going downhill on this path! It really makes you realise how far you’ve come. Back to free hot showers in Namche, a trip to the Irish Pub, and free wifi.
The world's highest Irish pub at Namche Bazaar! Featuring a pool table, comfy seats, and a bar, it's very cosy in there!
Day 11
Namche Bazaar (3550m) to Lukla (2880m)
Distance: ~18.5km
It was a lot sunnier on the Hillary Bridge heading back down!
The trek to Lukla is around 18.5km, back over the Hillary Bridge and through some of my favourite landscapes of the trek. Another long day which finishes with an ascent to the town, but it’s the last one! You’ll arrive in Lukla and spend the night there before flying out to Ramechhap and driving back to Kathmandu tomorrow, weather dependent of course! It’s emotional to make it back to Lukla, where it all started. Congratulations, you’ve done it!
Packing List for Everest Base Camp
You’ll want to pack light for this trek, as all flights to Lukla have a 10kg weight limit on checked baggage, and a 5kg limit for your carry-on. And if you elect to carry your own gear rather than hire a porter, you will thank yourself! As I was undertaking this trek, I kept a list of all the things I was very glad I had, and the things I wished I had brought with me. Here it is for you so you are as prepared as possible! This list is exclusive of the basics of clothes, toiletries, personal items, and the like.
Snacks: I cannot emphasise this enough. I wish I had brought more snacks. Unless you’re eating heaps of dal bhat for every meal, you will rarely be eating enough to replace all the energy you’re burning, and you will be hungry. Do not skimp on snacks! Having something sweet at the end of the day or as you go also makes such a difference. I had a tiny packet of sweets that were like gold dust for me.
Toilet paper: None of the teahouses supply toilet paper. Buy a couple of rolls in Kathmandu before you go up as it is cheapest there. All of the tea houses sell rolls, but they are extortionately priced.
Cash: anything you buy on the mountain will be cash only. This includes food, water, wifi, toilet paper, showers, and everything in between. You will also need to have enough cash to tip your guide and porter at the end of the trip, especially if they don’t travel back to Kathmandu with you. To cover tipping and extra costs, I recommend bringing at least 20,000-30,000 Nepalese Rupees.
Wet wipes: For the days where showers are non-existent or too expensive, wet wipes are a lifesaver. I took 5 wet-wipe showers during my trek. It’s nowhere near as good as the real thing, but it does make you feel much fresher after a day of sweating.
Lip balm with SPF: The sun up the mountain is strong, and the air is very dry. Definitely pack lip balm that has SPF in it (50+ ideally). It was essential.
Suncream: SPF 50+ as well! The air is very thin and you won’t feel like you’re burning, but you are!
Power banks (x2): The further up you go, the less access to electricity you have. Granted, you aren’t using your phone for much more than photos, but make sure you bring at least one powerbank that can charge your phone 4 times. And an extra in case the cold kills it!
Water purification tablets and/or a filtered water bottle: None of the tap water in Nepal is drinkable, but it is much more sustainable to fill up a reusable bottle from the tap than to buy bottled water for the whole trek. When you’re drinking 4-5 litres a day, this is a lot of plastic, and a lot of weight on your back. Almost everyone on the trail was using either a filtered water bottle or water purification tablets. I have a Water-to-Go bottle which is great, but have also heard good things about Lifestraws and Grayl bottles. I actually ended up using the tablet in the filtered bottle so that the filter took away the taste of chlorine from the tablet, which worked out great. You’ll have to buy some bottled water for the days in Lobuche and Gorak Shep because it’s quite grainy, but a filtered bottle does the trick here. If you buy water purification tablets in Kathmandu, make sure you check the expiration date! Your guide will likely have some as well.
Electrolytes: For that extra bit of energy and to replace the salts you lose while walking, I strongly recommend bringing some electrolytes to drink. They will also disguise the taste of the chlorine water purification tablets!
Imodium: Just in case! The last thing you want is to be stuck with food poisoning on the mountain, with no access to toilets on parts of the trail.
Headtorch: This is a must - not only for the sunrise hike to Kalapattar, but also for the tea houses which don’t have electricity. It’s very dark at night!
Sleeping bag: I rented a -25°C sleeping bag in Kathmandu and it was essential. The tea houses generally provide you with a duvet, but it won’t be enough to keep you warm at night, especially at the really high altitudes. I often put the duvet on over the sleeping bag. If you are concerned about hygiene, consider bringing your own sleeping bag liner or buying one in Kathmandu.
Hat, buff, gloves, and a down jacket: I thought I would be using these more times than I did. But hiking up to EBC on Day 8 was very cold, and I don’t think I’ve ever been colder than at the Kala Patthar summit! I lived in my puffer jacket in the mornings and evenings too.
Clean Clothes (for the evenings): After a shower (or wet-wipe shower), being able to change into clean clothes was the best feeling. I had a t-shirt, leggings, and fleece that I threw on every night for the afternoon and dinner. It made such a difference not having to put my dirty trekking clothes back on.
Merino wool gear: This material is amazing. No matter how many times you wear it, it just never seems to smell. I don’t understand it, but no complaints. It will save you space and weight in your bag. I packed two long-sleeved tops and one pair of thermal leggings in merino wool for nighttime. Socks and a couple of t-shirts would also go a long way!
Midlayers: I wish I had packed more midlayers. Most days you get quite hot walking, but not hot enough to just be in a t-shirt. A thin mid-layer rather than just a jumper would be perfect. I also definitely recommend sleeves over tank tops because you’re carrying your backpack and with a tank, your shoulders rub a lot. I made this mistake!
Top Tips for the Everest Base Camp Trek
Plan your trip with buffer days! With the Lukla airport being the most dangerous airport in the world, any bad weather can cancel all flights in and out of the airport, for days at a time. The day after I flew to Lukla, there were no flights at all in or out of the airport for 6 consecutive days. I had my flight cancelled on the way back to Kathmandu, and had to spend an extra night in Lukla after the trek as well. My flight the next day was the only one that went. This isn’t rare, even in the dry season. Please have extra days booked into your trip to avoid expensive flight changes. The wifi and service up in the mountains also isn’t good enough to rely on to change your flight when you’re up there.
Don't eat meat (or dairy). There are no roads into Lukla, and beyond Lukla, everything on the mountain has to be carried up by porters, yaks, jokyos, or donkeys. This means it is not refrigerated sometimes for days. Eating meat or dairy at any of the tea houses or restaurants along the way is very risky and food poisoning is very common amongst those who do. The best way is to be vegetarian, and you will have so many options.
Book a guide and porter. Not only is it technically required to get a guide for this trek, it is also worth every penny. Here are a few key reasons why:
The guides will book all of the accommodation throughout the trek for you. This is especially important as you get higher up the mountain, as the towns of Lobuche and Gorak Shep have very limited accommodation options. There were crowds of people outside the tea houses asking for rooms because they had not reserved. And there weren’t any available. Tents had to be put up in Gorak Shep as well, and it was absolutely freezing there. There were even people who decided to make the push to EBC from Lobuche and all the way back down to Dingboche in one day to have a bed. This wasn’t even during peak season. Not having to deal with all of the chaos was a lifesaver. Needless to say the guides also know the best accommodation in each village.
Booking flights in and out of Lukla is complicated, and your guide/ tour company will sort this for you. This is also very important in the event your flight gets cancelled. The guides know the people who run the airlines and can get you tickets, because the operators favour their friends over tourists without guides. I would have had no idea what to do when my flight out of Lukla got cancelled, but our guide got us new tickets and secured a bed in Lukla for an extra night, which is also difficult when there are flight cancellations and everyone needs a place to stay. In the case that you have to take a helicopter up or down, they will also be able to call their friends in the helicopter companies, get you the best rate, and actually get you on a helicopter. This is much harder than it sounds, especially when there are hundreds of trekkers trying to get in and out of Lukla by chopper.
You support local people and the environment. The guides and porters in Nepal work incredibly hard, and by employing them, you give back to the communities you trek through. The hiring of a guide is also required by the government to protect the national park from the impacts of tourism.
Transport to and from Ramechhap in the high season will be sorted out by your tour company. This is a significant advantage that will save you time and money in getting to the airport, as it is a 4-5 hour drive from Kathmandu.
Altitude sickness monitoring. The guides deal with tourists daily, and understand the impacts of altitude when trekking in the Himalayas. They also get to know you and will be able to tell when you are suffering. Each night, we had our blood oxygen checked by the guides, and they had Diamox and other remedies on hand if something was to go wrong. In many teahouses, you have to pay to get your blood oxygen checked. It provides peace of mind to know that they are monitoring your health, because altitude sickness can be deadly. The guides also know the best acclimatisation hikes, and how high you should be aiming to climb on these days to make sure you are ready for the next ascent. This is critical.
Renting gear. I rented a sleeping bag and coat in Kathmandu before the trek. The guides showed me the best places to do this, and got us all the best rates on these items, which was extremely helpful, as ripping tourists off is not uncommon.
Porters. If you are sceptical about whether you need a porter, do yourself a favour and get one. These guys carry your 10kg duffel bags, leaving you with just your 5kg daypack. Trust me, it is worth it. The climbs at high altitude are tough, and I would have seriously struggled if I had been carrying 15kg on my back.
I hope I have convinced you! It is possible to hire a guide and porter in Lukla so that you don’t have to pay for the guide’s flights, but it was a godsend having them help us navigate the Ramechhap airport, because it was very chaotic.
Avoid Sita Air. If you are going to book flights independently, I recommend not going through Sita Air. There are three airlines that fly to and from Lukla, and Sita always seemed to have the problems. One of the planes was out of service on my way to Lukla, so our flight was delayed three hours. On the way back, all the other airlines were flying when Sita did not. It might have been an anomaly, but my experience was not positive!
Costs and Budget for Everest Base Camp
Booking the Everest Base Camp trek is not cheap, but compared to what you’d be paying for a similar experience in Europe or North America, it’s a great deal. There are countless companies offering the EBC experience, and with that comes a huge range of price points. I booked through Pristine Nepal, and paid $1250 for the two weeks, which included absolutely everything: transfers to and from Kathmandu airport, a hotel before the trek, transfer to and from Ramechaap, flights to and from Lukla, all accommodation, all food, a guide, a porter, water purification tablets, medicine (including altitude sickness tablets if you need them), and a hotel when I returned.
Companies such as Intrepid and G adventures offer the trip for up to three times the price. There is absolutely no need to be paying this, as everyone gets the same treatment, the same tea houses, the same food, the same planes, and the same guides and porters. We shared several tea houses with the Intrepid group and other more expensive tours.
If you are not pushed for time, book your trek in Kathmandu when you arrive. There are countless companies all over the tourist area of Thamel, including in all hostels, and they can sort you out on the spot. You will most likely save money on your trek this way. There may not be as big of a price difference for EBC because of the flights to Lukla, but for other treks in the Annapurna region and beyond, there will be a significant price saving.
FAQs for Trekking to Everest Base Camp
What is the food like?
Food during the trek is basic and not very varied, but good enough. Salt will be your friend! For breakfast, the options are quite limited, with a lot of egg dishes, sometimes some porridge, and my personal favourite, Tibetan (or Sherpa) bread, essentially fried bread with honey and/or jam. The quantity isn’t generally sufficient at breakfast, so bring some cereal bars for a top-up. For lunch and dinner, you’ll find a good deal of fried rice, fried noodles, soups, momos, and of course, dal bhat. Dal Bhat is probably your best option, as you get dal soup, rice, and veg curry on your plate, and because of the dish’s cultural significance, you get free and unlimited refills of all of it until you say stop. This makes it the best value on the menu. At the start of the trek, I was having it once a day, and by the end, I was getting so hungry that it was a twice-daily order. You’ll see and hear the quote “dal bhat power, 24 hour” all through the trek, and there is a lot of truth to it!
From left to right: Tibetan/ Sherpa bread, fried noodles with vegetables, and dal bhat. My typical breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
What is the bathroom situation like?
As you will have read, the bathrooms get more and more basic the further you go up the mountain.
Showers are almost always shared (above Namche Bazaar), and the water is heated by the sun in giant black storage tanks on the roofs of the tea houses. The water does get very hot, especially on a sunny day! But this means there is limited hot water, and you might have to wait a bit for the tank to refill and re-heat. If you decide to pay for a shower, I recommend showering as soon as you arrive at your accommodation in the afternoon, before the masses arrive, and before the sun sets.
You will always find at least one Western-style (as opposed to squat) toilet at each tea house. Whether they flush is another question! In my experience, running water in toilets stopped at Dingboche, and you have to pour water from a giant tank into the toilet to flush it. As you can imagine, when you have over 100 people sharing these toilets, with food poisoning and altitude sickness thrown into the mix, it can get messy. I luckily only experienced a couple of really bad toilets, but it could have been much worse! Bring your own toilet paper too, it is never provided, even in the nicest tea houses.
With the loss of running water comes the loss of taps to wash your hands, brush your teeth, etc. Bottled water, wet wipes, and hand sanitizer will be your friends. Most places will have a sink, but it might be tap-less. It’s all part of the adventure!
My 'Super Deluxe' room at Lobuche. This is very standard tea house accommodation that you can expect on your trek.
How do you prevent altitude sickness?
This is one of the most common questions I get about this trek! I was lucky enough to not feel any of the effects of altitude during the whole 11 days of walking, but it can impact anyone, regardless of fitness level, age, gender, etc. There are a few ways to combat it:
Drink lots of water. I was drinking up to 5 litres of water every day on the trek, and that was absolutely necessary to keep hydrated. Your body loses many more fluids in the dry air, while exercising, and at high altitude, so you need to replenish them.
Take the acclimatisation days seriously. These days are built in for a reason and help your body adjust slowly to altitude. Make sure you do all the acclimatisation hikes, no matter how long they may take you.
Take it slowly. Racing up the mountain can be dangerous. Don’t walk too fast; let your body adjust slowly to the altitude, even if you aren’t feeling it at all.
Natural remedies. Nepalese climbers and Sherpa swear by a few natural remedies to help with the effects of altitude. Garlic soup and ginger tea are some of these remedies, and you’ll always see them on the menu. I did drink a lot of ginger tea, but can’t tell you if it made a difference or not!
Medication. A lot of people take Diamox or a similar altitude sickness medication to help with the effects of altitude. It essentially increases the number of red blood cells in your blood, allowing your body to absorb more oxygen. I personally did not take any medication, but some people I was walking with, did. I have heard advice saying not to take the medication unless you need to, because if you’re already taking it and get sick, there’s nothing else you can do. In some cases, the medication can kick in in 20 minutes, making a huge and immediate difference to your health. This is not medical advice, but several guides said the same thing. Listen to your guide and take their advice - they see this every day. If you have a headache, any standard painkillers should be taken before getting dramatic and going straight for the Diamox. Sometimes they are all it takes - you’re probably dehydrated too.
Can you do the trek without flying into and out of Lukla?
It is possible to complete the Everest Base Camp trek without flying into and out of Lukla. This route will add several days to the experience and makes the journey less comfortable, but is very feasible. It involves getting a 10 hour jeep from Kathmandu to Salleri, spending the night, and starting the trek from there. The road to Salleri is very uneven and not well paved, which makes for a bumpy drive. Depending on your route, it can take anywhere from 2 to 4 days to reach Phakding (the first night’s stop on the regular EBC route) from Salleri. You do this route in reverse on your way down. If you are looking at doing the Everest Base Camp trek without flying, I strongly recommend booking this jeep and additional few days of trekking in Kathmandu rather than online to ensure it is booked and organised correctly. You will see plenty of tour operators around Thamel offering the package to speak to and receive quotes from.
How much should I tip my guide and porter?
Guides are paid a rate of US$35/day, and porters are paid US$15/day. It is customary to tip your guide between 15,000 NPR - 20,000 NPR+ (US$110 - US$150+), and your porter a little less, between 13,000 NPR - 18,000 NPR+ (US$97 - US$135+). Some people tip more, but I would not tip any less. It largely depends on how satisfied you were with your guide and porter, but remember they and their families rely on these tips and need the money much more than you.
How fit do I need to be? Should I train?
This is not a trek for the light-hearted, and the challenging days are very difficult. Many people refer to the Everest Base Camp trek as a ‘glorified hike’, but I disagree. I have a good level of fitness, and still struggled on many days. I think that being very physically fit is absolutely necessary to make this trek enjoyable, and to help with altitude. I recommend doing an increased amount of cardio training in the months leading up to the trek, and adding in weights to strengthen your muscles for the uphill stretches. Building up the muscles around your knees also goes a long way in preparing them for the long days of almost exclusively downhill trekking. You get plenty of time to rest in the afternoons, which is necessary recovery time.
What was the flight like?
As a nervous flyer who is terrified of turbulence, I was very scared for this little flight into Lukla. I had heard the stories of crashes and dangerous take-offs and landings from the world’s most dangerous airport, and needless to say I was freaking out. But my guide reassured me as we were waiting in the Ramechhap Airport. He said: “these pilots fly this route more times a day than they pee”. And that stuck with me.
It’s a very small plane (approx. 14 seats), so the takeoff from Ramechhap is quick. You will feel all the little bumps in the air, but I actually felt quite safe. Try to enjoy the views of the mountains and the snow-capped Himalayas beyond the foothills, and get excited that you’re heading towards them!
Top tip: sit on the left side of the plane on the way to Lukla to have the best chance of seeing Everest - but be early in the queue to board because everyone has the same idea! Likewise, sit on the right side on your flight back.
At only 15-20 minutes, the flight is so short that you barely register you are in the air before you spot the runway at Lukla in the distance. This was the scariest part for me, but again, you’re down before you even know it. The pilots know what they’re doing! The runway is on an incline to slow you down, you’ll turn off it, and then you disembark and get trekking! It’s a crazy experience but one I’ll remember forever.
The takeoff from Lukla is not as scary as the landing, but it’s a much stranger feeling. I relate it to what it seems to be like going off a ski jump. You go down the sloped runway, and then lift off just as the runway ends and drops off into the valley. Again, terrifying to think about, but you are in the air before the runway stops, you aren’t literally going off a cliff, even though it may seem like it! And then you’re admiring your last views of the snow-capped Himalayas before you land back in Ramechhap and see all the eager people waiting to get up there. You’ll have such a sense of accomplishment at this moment. I will never forget the mixed emotions I felt disembarking that plane, knowing it was all over.
The arrivals gate at Ramechhap
I hope that you find this guide useful and it has got you excited about doing the Everest Base Camp trek. I recommend it to absolutely everyone - you won’t regret it! I can’t wait to get back to Nepal for more of these insane views and life-changing experiences.
Leaving Sagarmatha National Park
A final note…
The landscapes on this trek are some of the best I have ever seen. Please look after them. The environmental impact of tourists in this region is huge, with litter presenting the largest crisis. Take all of your rubbish with you, limit your use of plastic bottles, and pick up anything you find along the way. As always, leave only your footprints behind :)
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