Sri Lanka’s public transport infrastructure isn’t as developed as that of other Southeast Asian countries. It has a few good train routes and a couple of tourist buses, but the vast majority is the public bus system. If you don’t want to or have the budget for taxis between places, and don’t want to rent a tuk tuk and drive yourself (the roads are scary!), then unfortunately the public buses are your only option. I’ve put together a guide for you here to make your experience as seamless as possible!
If you want a full guide to Sri Lanka, check out my other post here.
Contents
Which Bus Should I Take?
Google Maps should be your first port of call when planning a bus journey in Sri Lanka. It tells you the bus number and direction of the bus you’ll need to take. I also recommend heading to a bus station (if the town has one), and asking/double checking with the people who work there. You probably won’t even have to approach anyone - they will come to you and ask where you’re going. Often they will give you a faster or better route than your Maps does, and so are normally very helpful. Be nice to them because they are also the people who will help you on and off the bus at your stop - more on that below.
HOWEVER, there is always a bit of competition between drivers as they will try and get you to take their bus rather than a different one. Most of the time, more than one bus can take you to the same place, so it doesn’t matter, but beware that they will try and convince you that their route is better!
It is unlikely that you’ll be able to get a direct bus to your destination unless it’s a very common route for locals. These buses do not aim to serve tourists at all, and so your journey might need to involve one or more changes.
Getting On and Off the Bus
Getting on the bus is usually easy. If your're at a bus station, that's not a problem, just find the right one and get on it. If you're at a stop, you need to make sure you wave down the bus so that the driver stops for you. When you get on, you’ll normally tell the ticketmaster/ conductor where you are getting off. They always remember, and will tell you when you’ve reached your stop. Have your location on Google Maps just to make sure, though. They normally make you get ready a bit early as it can take you a while to push your way to the door through swarms of people who don’t like moving out of the way for you. You’ll have to do this while the bus is still moving. The stop will be about 5 seconds long, just enough time for you to jump off. Consider yourself lucky, because for locals, the drivers normally just slow down and then hit the gas again.
Where do you put your Bags?
If you’re travelling with a big backpack, you’ll probably be asking this question. Some buses will put them at the front with the driver, others might put them in the back of the bus, and sometimes you might have to hold onto them. It really depends, but you’ve got options. If you’re not with your bag for the journey, make sure that you get to it before you get off, so that the bus doesn’t drive off with it!
How much do the Buses Cost? How do I Pay?
The first thing to say is that you will be paying a tourist price, which is more than the locals will pay. Needless to say, it’s still not much at all. The most I paid (for a 5 hour journey) was 600 LKR (approx. £1.75), and most journeys are around 100-200 LKR (approx. 28p - 55p). Someone will come around and collect money from you once you’ve sat down (or are standing up), you don’t pay before you get on the bus. It's cash only. Don’t give your money to beggars - if the person does not tell you how much the ticket is or asks you where you’re going, don’t trust them with your money - I made this mistake!
What are the Buses like?
Here goes… the buses are crazy. The drivers go at ridiculous speeds, overtaking irresponsibly around corners, up hills, all with trucks and tuk tuks coming the other way. Regardless, I think it’s almost better to be in a bus than in a tuk tuk because the bus, in most cases, would win?
Don’t expect to get a seat. Your best chance of getting one is if you get on at the start of the route, but even then it’s risky. And if the bus looks full, it isn’t. They will always find a way to squeeze you in even if it means you’re hanging out of the door. I’ve been there.
The buses do not have air conditioning; all the windows and doors are open, so the breeze helps, but it is very hot and sweaty in there. And very dirty. The sweat on me was often black. My hands were black from holding on to the back of chairs. It’s not a hygienic experience but who can complain for that price? Pack wet wipes and hand sanitiser and plenty of water.
You also have zero personal space. People will hand you their bags to hold, be right up against you, shove past you to move around, sit their children on your lap, fall on you when the bus moves, stand on your feet, the list is endless. It is not for the faint hearted. But it’s all part of the experience! And some of my best stories are from these buses. If you're lucky, your bus will be outrageously decorated and blare music the entire time too! Type 2 fun for sure.
Do the Buses ever Stop?
Unless it’s a very long route, the buses won’t stop for toilet breaks. I only stopped when I was on a 5 hour journey from Kandy to Trincomalee. If you’re lucky enough to stop, bring plenty of toilet paper and hand sanitiser, as the stops are just about as clean as the bus you get off!
If you decide to take these buses, best of luck! They are a truly authentic (and one of the most sustainable) ways of getting around Sri Lanka but they will take it all out of you. Be prepared for your journey. And as always, don’t throw anything out of the bus, leave only your footprints behind :)
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