The slowboat from Chiang Rai, Thailand, to Luang Prabang, Laos is often seen as a backpacker’s rite of passage. It was probably one of the most chaotic journeys of my life, and it was an experience to say the least. It is, however, one of the cheapest ways to get between the two places, so here is everything you need to know to make your journey run as smoothly as possible.
Contents
Slow boats in Pak Beng
Itinerary: How the Slow Boat Works
I booked my trip to Laos through Mercy Hostel in Chiang Rai, and you can book onto it whether you stay there or not. It cost 1,690 baht (approx. £38) for the two day trip, which is roughly the going rate for the public boat. Everything was organised by the hostel, so I didn’t have to do much. This is the same process regardless of who you book through.
The bus picked us up from the hostel in Chiang Rai at 5am, and we drove to the border with Laos, arriving there at approximately 7:30am when the border opened. Here, we got our passports stamped by the Thai border control (they asked for 20 baht as a ‘stamp fee’ which was ridiculous, but that’s how it is!), and were put on a bus to head over to the Laos border control, across the friendship bridge.
Thai Border
At the Laos border, we filled out the visa forms. You can do this online and apply for an e-visa (this is slightly cheaper), but there is no need - most people do it in person and you will have to wait for everyone else anyway. You enter the queue for the Laos visa, where they take your passport and forms, and you wait for it to be approved. The visa costs US$40 in cash, and these notes have to be crisp and flawless to be accepted. You can also pay in Thai baht but you will lose out significantly on the exchange rate.
Laos Border
You also need a physical passport photo for this application. It didn’t take more than 15 minutes for the visa to be put into my passport, and we waited for everyone to come through. Then we got on another bus to the slow boat pier in Huay Xai, which took about 20 minutes.
At the pier, you are given the opportunity to buy snacks and lunch. You can also buy these on board the boat if you need, and the offering includes pot noodles, crisps, water, soft drinks, and beer. There are no ATMs in Huay Xai, but don’t panic. The slow boat operators and your transfer agents will try and get you to exchange your Thai baht for Laotian Kip, but don’t fall for this trap. It’s a terrible exchange rate and you are much better off waiting. You don’t need Kip until you reach Luang Prabang, as all the places in Pak Beng (the overnight stop) take Thai baht, and there are (temperamental) ATMs there (more on that below).
These people will also try to sell you accommodation for your night in Pak Beng. You should have already booked this, and this will be an advantage because their prices are much higher than on Booking.com. You can buy a SIM card through these people as well, and from what I saw, the prices were quite fair. I always opt for an e-sim, however, so had this sorted and did not look into it.
The seats at the front of the boat
Eventually, you will be given your boat ticket. Do not lose or throw away your ticket! As soon as you have it, head straight down to the boat. You will have a seat number allocated on your ticket, but do not be fooled. It is a complete and utter free for all. Chaos would be another word. If you are not among the first people on the boat, you will be given no other option than to sit at the back. Believe me when I say you do NOT want to be sitting at the back. It is right next to the engine, there are not enough seats, and bags are literally everywhere. The noise was deafening (even with ear plugs), the engine fumes made us all feel sick, and we were all sitting on half a seat. A lot of people were also on the floor, and the rest were given plastic chairs just put haphazardly in the middle of the room. It was up there with the most uncomfortable 7 hours of my life.
Ticket to Luang Prabang
There are toilets on board, but they are just as you’d imagine from the slow boat - dirty squat toilets with no flush, no toilet paper, and nowhere to wash your hands. If you use them, make sure you bring tissues and lots of hand sanitiser and wet wipes. The first day is 7 hours down the Mekong to Pak Beng where you spend the night. The boat stops along the way to let local people get on and off, and honestly the scenery is quite nice if you are able to find a window to look out of.
When you arrive in Pak Beng, head to your accommodation. As I mentioned, make sure you have booked this in advance. I made the mistake of thinking that there would be plenty of options when I got there, but ended up having to book the last room on Booking.com (Hostelworld does not have any options) because everything was sold out. Luckily, the hotels were cheap and after that first day, I was very glad to have my own space for the night. Most people stay at Mekong Backpackers. A lot of the hostels and homestays will have pickups included from the pier, so look out for your sign.
Pak Beng seems like a purpose built town for the slow boat journey. However, its ATMs are often either out of order or empty, so don’t be relying on them. Everywhere accepts Thai baht though, so don’t worry. You will see plenty of places offering packed lunches, and I recommend pre-ordering a lunch for the next day from one of the places near the pier, as well as stocking up on water and snacks. It will save you time in the morning.
The next day, the boat leaves between 9am and 9:30am, but to make sure you are not sitting at the back, be there by 7:30am, 7:45am at the very latest. By 8am, all the seats at the front were full. It adds a lot to your sitting time on the boat, but it is very worth it. Bring a book and things to do! Make sure you still have your ticket for this leg of the journey, as they will take it off you today. It is about 7.5 to 8 hours on the river on day 2, and you will begin to get very restless, especially in the cramped space.
Kuang Si Falls, Luang Prabang
Finally, you arrive in Luang Prabang. There is a tuk tuk station at the pier which offers rides into the city for 40,000 Kip per person (approx. £1.40). You will be sharing with as many other people as they can squeeze onto the tuk tuk. Make sure you are watching where you are on Google Maps so that you get off at the right place. Try and tell your driver in advance so that they stop for you. You have made it! And Luang Prabang is the best place to rest and recover from a stressful trip. I absolutely loved it there.
Read my guide for the best 10 days in Laos!
Tuk Tuks to Luang Prabang from the Slow Boat pier
Essentials for the Trip
To make your slow boat experience more comfortable, here are some of my must-haves for the trip:
Passport photo plus any extra visa documents that your passport requires
US$40 cash (plus extra notes in case they get rejected)
Snacks and lunch
Water
Hand sanitizer/ wet wipes
Ear plugs
Tissues/ toilet paper
Comfortable clothes
Top Tips for taking the Slow Boat
Book accommodation in Pak Beng in advance: you need to make sure you have accommodation booked in Pak Beng before you leave on the slow boat. I cannot emphasise this enough. The last thing you want is to be left without a decent place to sleep. Use Booking.com for this as Hostelworld does not come up with many options.
Don't fall for any of the scams on your way to the boat. This includes exchanging money and booking accommodation. You are much better off doing it on your own.
Bring snacks and lunch from Chiang Rai for the first day. Depending on what tour operator you use, you might not have time to buy things, so make sure you have food and water in case.
Bring lots to do on the boat, as service is in and out the whole way.
If you decide to make the journey to Huay Xai by yourself and buy a ticket at the pier the day before, you will probably be able to get a better seat on the first day, because you will arrive at the pier before the buses come in the morning. Look into transport options from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai on 12Go Asia or ask your hostel.
Luang Prabang
This journey is far from relaxing, but it was quite an experience. While I would never do it again, it is now a great story, and I hope this helps you plan for your own slow boat adventure.
As a final note: the slow boat is along the Mekong River, which ranks in the top 10 by volume for the rivers which are the largest sources of plastic pollution into the ocean. It broke my heart when a local woman finished eating her lunch out of a plastic container and just threw it overboard, simply using the river as a giant bin. Please don’t do this. Try to set an example by keeping all of your rubbish with you and disposing of it when you get to Pak Beng or Luang Prabang. Leave only your footprints behind :)
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