I spent over a month in Thailand, tackling the North first, then heading into Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia, before heading back into Thailand to explore Bangkok and the South. There is a lot to see and do, but I have highlighted the best parts of the country so you can make the most of your one month in Thailand, including things to do, places to stay, and the best places to eat. We will start in Chiang Mai in the north, and then head down south to the islands.
Pai Canyon
Contents
Logistics: Making Bookings and Moving Around
Getting around Thailand might seem overwhelming, but it’s very easy once you know what to do. In major cities, you can use the Grab or Bolt apps for taxis, and use Google Maps to find the best public transport routes. Between destinations, make sure you download the 12Go Asia app. You can put in your origin and destination and it will give you all the options for that route. It works for buses, trains, and ferries, as well as combinations of all three. You can even book private taxis on it. You pay on the app and you will receive tickets via email. Everyone uses it and it’s very reliable - I never had any issues in Thailand.
Luckily, you don’t need to make bookings very far in advance. It will depend on where you are, but generally in the north, you can book hostels and buses a day or two before you need them and be fine. In the south, you might need a week or so in advance to ensure you have your first choice hostel. It is much busier and so the best hostels do get booked up fast. For activities, I would generally book the day before and have no issues. Most of the time you can book through your hostel which makes it very easy. Thailand is a big backpacker destination, so there are always last minute options available!
Lanna Square, Chiang Mai
Itinerary Overview
Day 1 - 4: Chiang Mai
Day 4 - 9: Pai
Day 9 - 10: Chiang Rai
Day 10 - 13: Bangkok
Day 13 - 18: Koh Tao
Day 18 - 20: Ao Nang
Day 20 - 23: Koh Lanta
Day 23 - 25: Khao Sok
Day 25 - 27: Kanchanaburi
Day 27 - 30: Bangkok and travel day buffers!
Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai was my favourite place in Thailand. It is a great city with plenty to do, surrounded by incredible nature. I spent 4 nights there, but could have spent longer!
Things to Do
Visit an Elephant Sanctuary
I will start by saying you have to be very careful with all of the elephant sanctuaries in Thailand, as many claim to be ethical but are the opposite of that. It is the number one thing to do in Chiang Mai, so please do your research before booking an experience at one. The best things to look for are hands-off experiences where you have no physical contact with elephants. I went with Chai Lai Orchid and wasn’t overly impressed by the ethics of the place - there was elephant feeding and bathing involved in the day which seemed excessive and unnecessary for the animals.
Chai Lai Orchid Elephant Sanctuary
Elephant Nature Park is the best one at the moment, but you will need to book this somewhat in advance, because it does sell out. Their half day packages start at around 2,500 baht (approx. £55). You can also choose to spend the night there for a full immersion experience, and they have volunteering programmes too. This would be incredible.
Temple Hopping
There are countless Wats (temples) in Chiang Mai, and all of them are beautiful. You can easily spend a day walking around the city and finding the best ones. Most of them are free to visit with the exception of a few, but the entrance tickets won’t cost more than 50 baht (approx. £1.10). Make sure you have your shoulders and knees covered, and note that you will have to take your shoes off to go inside any of them.
Temples in Chiang Mai
Doi Inthanon National Park
About an hour from the centre of Chiang Mai is Doi Inthanon National Park, a beautiful park with stunning waterfalls, mountain scenery, and temples. I did a full day tour of the park that I booked through Get Your Guide for £44. It included a stop at Wachirathan Waterfall and
Siriphum Waterfall, as well as the highest point in Thailand, a handicraft village, and the King and Queen Pagodas. It was a great trip and I definitely recommend getting out there if you can!
Wachirathan Waterfall, Doi Inthanon National Park
Take a Cooking Class
Chiang Mai is one of the best places to do a cooking class in Thailand, and I recommend booking with Sammy’s Organic Thai Cooking School. It is mostly backpackers who do this class, so it is a lot of fun and is in a great setting. You will need to book this about a week in advance too because it is very popular.
King and Queen Pagodas, Doi Inthanon
Other Things to Do!
I didn’t get around to doing everything in Chiang Mai, but I also recommend heading to the Sticky Waterfalls for a fun day climbing up them and having a swim. Grand Canyon Water Park is also a lot of fun!
The view from the King and Queen Pagodas
Where to Stay
Chiang Mai is backpacker central so there are so many hostels to choose from. I stayed at Sherloft Home, which was lovely and in a great location, but very quiet. Most people stay at Stamps for a very social experience, and I also heard great things about Hostel Lullaby. Check Hostelworld for the latest reviews.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
It is very easy to find vegan and vegetarian friendly food in Thailand. Most curries are vegan , and if you ask for dishes without egg, restaurants are usually very happy to comply. Check for fish sauce as well! Here are some of my favourite places:
Vegan Society: perfect for trying veganised traditional Thai dishes!
Baan Lanna Thai Cuisine: I had such a good Khao Soi, the staple dish of Chiang Mai, here
Writer’s Club: this place was very cool and had a great atmosphere
Lanna Square: this was a night market type place with lots of stalls, including a specialised vegetarian and vegan one. It was such a good vibe there with everyone eating in the middle and live music and performances. I went back several times!
Khao Soi!
Pai
Pai is probably the most popular place in North Thailand for backpackers. You might have heard of people getting ‘stuck in the Pai Hole’ because they love it so much. I did not find I got stuck there, and 4 nights was definitely enough to see all the top places in and around the town. It might be a little overhyped, but here are the best things to do to make the most of your time there.
Two Huts, Pai
Most places are only accessible by scooter or by a tour. There are plenty of places to rent scooters for a day or more in town, ranging from 200 baht to 300+ baht (approx. £4.50 - £6.70+) per day. You need to have an international drivers licence to do this, and most places will make you leave your passport as security. Please be very careful if you decide to do this, as so many people get into accidents because they are inexperienced and the roads around Pai are very windy.
Things to Do
Sunset at Pai Canyon and/or Two Huts
Pai is famous for its sunset points, and Pai Canyon is probably the most popular one. It has great views and at sunset is filled with people. Two Huts is just as good, and also has a bar where you can get food and drinks. Get there early if you want a seat, and even earlier if you want food! They also sometimes have live music. The easiest way to get to Pai Canyon and Two Huts is by scooter, however, there are also tours that drive you there and back from town for around 150 baht per person (approx. £3.40). You can book these tours in town on the day or the day before with one of the many operators there.
Pai Canyon
Visit Lod Caves
This is a very cool cave about an hour and a half’s scooter ride from Pai. If you don’t want to make this drive, you can take a tour from town for around 200 baht (approx. £4.50). When you get there, the entrance costs 200-300 baht (approx. £4.50 - £6.70) with a guide. The guide is mandatory, and the price varies depending on the group size. It includes a walk through three caves, a bamboo raft in the cave, and the guide who, despite not speaking much English, will point out rock formations that look like broccoli and the like. It was quite funny. As a heads up, there are toilets at the cave, but they aren’t the best - make sure you have toilet paper and hand sanitizer!
Broccoli in the Lod Cave
Do a Yoga Class
There are plenty of yoga classes in Pai, and most are drop in classes. I went to Pai Yoga Shala which was really great. It was outdoors and the instructor was amazing. He catered for people of all levels and made us all feel very comfortable. It cost 300 baht for a 1.5 hour lesson (approx. £6.70).
Visit Waterfalls
There are plenty of waterfalls around Pai. The easiest one to get to is Mo Peng Falls, which has a natural water slide and great views. It costs 100 baht (approx. £2.20) to enter and you can spend ages there sunbathing and swimming. If you don’t want to go via scooter, you can take a tour from town again, and this will include other waterfalls in the area. It will not be much more expensive than doing it by yourself.
Mo Peng Falls
Take a Tour of the Hotspots
Many of the tours in Pai take you to other hotspots including waterfalls and the bamboo bridge. I recommend only visiting the bridge in the wet season or just after it, because it is in the middle of rice fields that will be completely brown and dry if you visit in the dry season. It’s not worth going if that is the case.
Tha Pai Hot Springs
Take a Cooking Class
I took a cooking class with Pai Cookery School and loved it. It was a small group of four of us, and we cooked with a great view over the countryside at sunset. You can choose which dishes you want to make, and they are great at adapting the recipe to suit vegans and vegetarians. It cost 600 baht (approx. £13) for the short course in which you make 3 dishes, and 800 baht (approx. £18) for the longer course in which you make 4 dishes and visit a local market. The woman running it was lovely and I cannot recommend it enough.
Pai Canyon
Where to Stay
Pai can be a big party town if you want it to be. I was looking for a hostel that was social but not a party hostel, and did struggle a bit to find one. I ended up at Buzza’s which was a great balance and had a nice pool and was pretty close to the town centre. Common Grounds also offers a similar vibe. If you are looking for a party hostel, Nolo Hub is very highly rated, as is Revolution.
Mo Peng Falls
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Pai is a vegan and vegetarian heaven. The famous walking street at night is filled with cheap street food that is delicious and includes things like veggie gyozas, dumplings, and tofu kebabs, along with Thai dishes. We went almost every night. Apart from that, here are a few places which had great options too:
Soul Café
Good Burger
Tofu Kebabs on Pai Walking Street
Chiang Rai
Most people don’t spend longer than a night in Chiang Rai, but there is actually a lot to see and do in and around this city, so don’t write it off. Here are some of the best things to do.
Things to Do
Visit the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun)
Probably the most famous temple in Thailand, the White Temple did not disappoint. I was blown away by this place. You can get there by taking the local bus from the central bus station, which costs 25 baht (approx. 50p) for a one-way ticket. They collect the fare on the bus. The first bus is at 8am, so try to be on that to beat a lot of the crowds. They will tell you when to get off for the White Temple. It costs 100 baht (approx. £2.20) to enter and you can buy a ticket on the door.
White Temple, Chiang Rai
You need to have your knees and shoulders covered to visit this temple, and they are notoriously strict here. Even people wearing a scarf to cover a sleeveless shirt have been known to be rejected, and they are made to go buy a t-shirt to wear instead. It is an absolutely stunning temple that is 100% worth all of the hype around it!
Visit the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten)
This is another stunning temple in Chiang Rai. We found a tuk tuk to take us there from the White Temple. This was a little bit more expensive than taking the bus back to Chiang Rai and then changing onto another bus, but it was much faster, and once we had split the price, very reasonable.
Blue Temple, Chiang Rai
The Blue Temple is free to enter and has a beautiful interior. You will need to have your shoulders and knees covered again.
Take a Golden Triangle Day Trip
While I did not do this, if you have an extra day in Chiang Rai, I recommend taking a day trip to the Golden Triangle where the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet. There are plenty of beautiful temples and markets to visit and it is a very interesting place to learn about the relationships between these countries. The best way to visit is by booking a tour on Get Your Guide or a similar site.
Visit Kuhn Korn Waterfall
If you have the time, drive 1.5-2 hours to Khun Korn waterfall. I did not have the time to do this unfortunately, but it looks stunning. You will need a tuk tuk or a scooter to get there. If you choose to get a tuk tuk, you can ask your driver to wait while you explore and then they will drive you back. Just make sure you agree on a price beforehand and don’t pay until the end! If you find people to split this with, it is well worth it.
Visit the Goddess of Mercy
This temple is a giant statue of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, which you can go inside of and climb up into her head. Again, I didn’t have the time to visit, but it is worth going if you do have time. It is accessible either by tuk tuk or scooter again.
Visit the Saturday Night Market
The Chiang Rai night market is open on Saturdays and is absolutely huge. It is great to get food and souvenirs, and literally anything else you can think of.
Where to Stay
Mercy Hostel is one of the best hostels in Chiang Rai. It has everything you need, is in a great location, and is very clean. You can also book the slowboat to Laos through them which is very convenient.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
The night market in Chiang Rai has lots of great options for cheap food, and a lot is vegetarian and vegan friendly. In town, here are a few recommendations:
Siam Corner
Easyhouse
Heaven Burger
Bangkok
It is time to head south! You can fly into Bangkok from the north of Thailand very easily and cheaply, or alternatively take the overnight train from Chiang Mai, often referred to as a backpacker’s rite of passage! Bangkok is a huge city with so much to offer. I recommend staying at least 3 nights here to see the highlights. It won’t be enough, but you will have the opportunity to extend or go back if you want. Here is just a snapshot of what to do in Bangkok.
Things to Do
Wat Pho and Wat Arun
Wat Pho and Wat Arun are two of Bangkok’s most iconic temples. They are very close to each other on the river so are easy to visit as well. Make sure your shoulders and knees are covered.
Wat Pho
Wat Pho is the one with the giant reclining Buddha and is very impressive. There is a huge temple complex around the Buddha itself which is very interesting too. It costs 300 baht (approx. £6.70) to enter.
From Wat Pho you can take the ferry across the river to Wat Arun. Wat Arun is much smaller than Wat Pho but has beautiful designs on the temple and you can go up some of it. It costs 200 baht (approx. £4.45) to enter and includes a bottle of water. The river ferry stops here so you buy tickets here (30 baht (approx. 67p) for a single trip or 150 baht (approx. £3.35) for a day hop-on-hop-off ticket), get on, and continue down the river to see more highlights of the city.
Wat Arun
Icon Siam
Icon Siam is an upmarket shopping mall but I went for the views from its terrace on the top floor. I took the ferry from Wat Arun and it stopped right outside. The view from the terrace is over the river and the city which is really nice, so it’s worth a stop! There is also a cheaper food court area on the bottom floor to get snacks or a meal.
Icon Siam
Chinatown
Chinatown is a great place to walk around - it is full of life, especially at night with all the lights and street food. It is all very cheap there, and it’s easy to get to - only a 40 minute walk from the Khao San Road area if you don’t want to take a bus.
Chinatown Bangkok
Chatuchak Market
Chatuchak Market is only fully open on weekends but this place is incredible. With over 15,000 stalls, you can find everything you’d ever want there. It obviously has the touristy stuff, but also has great shops with nice clothes, quality souvenirs, art, and a lot more. There is a huge food area as well which is very affordable. It’s easy to reach Chatuchak via the BTS Skytrain or by bus and it’s definitely worth spending at least half a day here if you can. It goes on forever and you can easily get lost looking at everything!
Floating Markets
Visiting the floating markets are always on the list of things to do around Bangkok. I went to the biggest one, Damnoen Saduak. Honestly, it was overrun with tourists, the waterways are completely blocked with boats (such that most of the time you are just sitting in the middle of the canal), and most places just sell classic tourist souvenirs that you can buy anywhere. I don’t actually think going to this one is worth it, as there are many more local ones closer to Bangkok that still have some charm.
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
However, if you are dead set on going, here are some logistics. Damnoen Saduak is about a 1.5-2 drive from central Bangkok, and the Grab cost around 950 baht (approx. £21) one way, split by the number of people in your car. It is only worth doing it by yourself as opposed to a tour if you are 4+ people to split this cost, because it is expensive. You can usually ask your driver to wait for you to drive you back. Agree on the price beforehand, and don’t pay until the end.
The boat ride is 400 baht (approx. £9) per person for a one hour tour. You can go with any of the companies that are there when you enter the market, all of the boats are the same price. They take you around the market, take you close to stalls that you want to look at, and then take you back at the end of the time. The best part was when we left the market itself and went into the ‘back waters’ which had much more of a local vibe to it.
Wat Samphran (Dragon Temple)
Wat Samphran is a very cool temple located about a 30-40 minute drive from central Bangkok. The easiest way to get there is to take a Grab, which costs around 400 baht (approx. £9) each way. Again, ask your driver to wait there and agree on a price beforehand. There aren’t many Grabs around so definitely do this to avoid getting stranded! You will need to have your shoulders and knees covered to visit.
Wat Samphran
The temple is free to enter but you are pressured to donate when you go inside and up it. I gave 20 baht (45p) and this seemed to be the accepted rate. To go up to the top, you walk up the actual dragon which winds around the outside of the temple. It’s a concrete tunnel with no windows so it is very stuffy and hot, despite the fans. It doesn’t take long at all to go up though, so you will be in the breeze soon. The views from the top aren’t the most incredible, but it’s cool to be so close to the dragon’s head.
Inside the Dragon at Wat Samphran
There are also forested paths around the temple which you can walk around and get good views of it through the trees. You don’t need much more than an hour here to explore.
Lumpini Park
Lumpini Park is out of the main touristy area of Bangkok so is really quiet and peaceful. There is a lake there where you can rent a boat if you want, or you can walk around it.
Open House in Central Embassy
Central Embassy is another very upmarket shopping mall which has a lovely top floor. It is very aesthetic with lots of bookshelves to browse, nice cafés and restaurants, and lots of coworking space. It’s worth seeing if you’re in the area for the relaxed vibe.
Open House
Rooftop Bars
Bangkok has countless rooftop bars, but not many suit you if you’re on a tight budget. I found the Brewski at the Radisson Blu Plaza hotel to be very budget friendly and still provide a great atmosphere and view. There was no dress code, no entry fee, and the drinks were relatively reasonably priced for a rooftop bar in Bangkok. We went at sunset and it wasn’t overly busy either, we had no trouble getting a table.
View from Brewski Rooftop bar
Where to Stay
Bangkok has so many hostels it’s overwhelming! Ideally you want to be near the Khao San area as that is where most of the tourist attractions, nightlife, and long-distance buses arrive and leave from. I stayed at two hostels: Khao San Social Capsule Hostel and Issara by D Hostel. Khao San Social Capsule hostel was good, but very small and not much space to leave your stuff in the rooms. I much preferred Issara by D. While it wasn’t as social, it has a great café attached to it, the air conditioning works very well, and there is a pool!
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Bangkok has so many good places to eat and so many of them cater well for vegetarians and vegans. Here were some of my favourites:
Ethos Vegetarian: everything on this menu was either veggie or vegan and they were all well labelled. It’s great for breakfast and lunch.
Khao San Road street food: the numerous stalls on Khao San Road at night had loads of options which were very cheap.
Tony’s restaurant: this is an Indian restaurant, not Thai, but it was such a cute place that had incredible food for very low prices.
Alice Café: this is the café attached to Issara by D Hostel, and it had a full vegan menu alongside the regular one.
Old Siam Mall: there is a food court in Old Siam Mall which has great food, including a stall that has some veggie options.
Kor Panich: this little mango sticky rice stand is Michelin rated. And it lives up to the hype. Definitely check it out.
Koh Tao
From Bangkok, I booked a bus and ferry transfer to Koh Tao with Lomprayah via 12Go Asia. It was a 7 hour bus journey (no stops!) and then a 3 hour ferry. In typical Thailand style, it seemed very chaotic, but everything worked!
Koh Tao is a bit like the Pai of the Thai Islands; it’s backpacker central. I spent 5 days on Koh Tao because I did my PADI Open Water scuba diving certification there. If you won’t be diving, you don’t need that long, but I highly recommend it! Koh Tao is the cheapest place in the world to dive and it got me addicted.
Things to Do
Diving
Scuba diving is the biggest thing to do on Koh Tao, and that’s pretty much all I did! It was absolutely incredible. I went with Black Turtle Dive, one of the biggest dive shops on the island, and they were very professional. I highly recommend them. The Open Water course cost 12,000 baht (approx. £270), which is about half of what it costs in the UK or US. It was a little more expensive than some other dive schools and no accommodation was included, but it was top notch service. The first day was spent in the pool and then we had to do 4 open water dives over 2 days. I can’t emphasise how amazing this experience was, it was one of the best things I did on my 10 month trip. Don’t write it off, even if you’re a bit nervous, I definitely was!
Beaches
There are several beaches around Koh Tao to explore, you will need a scooter to get to a lot of them, but they are all quite small and very picturesque.
Snorkelling Tours
If you don’t want to scuba dive, make sure you book onto a snorkelling tour to see the hotspots around the island. Turtles are a frequent sighting, the fish are incredible, and there are some amazing corals too.
Where to Stay
I stayed at Dudu’s hostel, but I honestly would not recommend it. It was very small, not social at all, and a bit dirty. I didn’t mind the non-social aspect because I knew I would be out diving all day, but there are other hostels on the island that had much better reviews, including Slumber Party. If you are diving, have a look at dive schools that offer accommodation included, because these are always a good option. Accommodation on Koh Tao and all the Thai islands are much more expensive than in the north, so budget accordingly.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
Koh Tao has some incredible food and no shortage of vegan and veggie options. Here are some of my favourite places:
Gemini: a Chinese noodle and dumpling place
Factory Café: this is a great café with so many vegan options. It was a little more expensive but worth it!
La Carotte Qui Rit: a veggie and vegan restaurant in the centre of the town with very yummy food.
In Touch: this place is on the beach and is perfect for watching the sunset with some pretty decent food.
Monkey Cup: I recommend this place for breakfast! They have good smoothie bowls, just ask for no milk or an alternative.
Bambam Restaurant: this is a Thai place which has some of the cheapest food I found on the island. The service was a little slow but the food was great.
Coconut Monkey: a gerat place for breakfast. They had plenty of options and everything was delicious.
Breeze Café and Restaurant: this place has great wraps that are perfect for takeaway. I got a vegan wrap from here before heading out on the dive boat every day.
Milk & Honey: a place with great Middle Eastern food. It’s a little out of the way and a bit more expensive but I highly recommend it.
Ao Nang and the Phi Phi Islands
I decided to stay in Ao Nang and do a day trip to the Phi Phi Islands rather than stay on the islands themselves. The hostels are much cheaper and nicer on the mainland, and it saves you a lot of travel time. All the tours to the Phi Phi islands go from Ao Nang, so it’s very convenient.
PiLeh Lagoon
Things to Do
Take a Tour of the Phi Phi Islands
I booked a tour of the Phi Phi Islands that included Maya Bay, PiLeh Lagoon (for swimming), a snorkelling spot, buffet lunch, and bamboo island for more beach time, swimming, and snorkelling. It was on a speedboat which is definitely worth it as it cuts your journey time in half. It was busy, but not nearly as bad as I thought it would be, and it is absolutely stunning. I booked through Sea Beach hostel and it cost 1,500 baht (approx. £34) for the whole day, which was pretty similar to all the other tours I saw. Book the early one rather than the later start though as you will beat some of the crowds that way.
Maya Bay
Ao Nang Landmark Night Market
The Landmark Night Market in Ao Nang had loads of food options, a great atmosphere in the seating area, a stage for live performances, and a little Muay Thai fight ring.
Ao Nang Landmark Market
Fire Shows
There are fire shows all along Ao Nang beach every night at 7:30pm and 9:30pm. They are free to watch although they do come round asking for tips.
Railay Beach
While I didn't get over there, Railay Beach is probably the nicest beach in the Ao Nang area. The best way to get there is by longtail boat from Ao Nang beach.
Where to Stay
I stayed at Sanim Hostel in Ao Nang and thought it was great. It was fairly small so it was quiet and very clean. I also heard good things about K Bunk if you are looking for more of a social/party vibe.
Koh Lanta
Koh Lanta is one of the largest Thai islands but is nowhere near as touristy as the others. I loved how peaceful it was. I stayed 5 nights just to rest, but I think 3 is enough. You might need a scooter to get around if you want to explore the island, but otherwise you can book tours or just stick to the beaches near your accommodation.
Things to Do
Scuba Dive or Snorkel at Koh Haa
I went diving with Go Dive Lanta at Koh Haa and had a great time. I paid 5000 baht (approx. £110) for three dives, pickups and drop offs at my hostel, breakfast, lunch, and all equipment. There were some amazing fish, coral, and even caves to dive in. I loved it and highly recommend Go Dive Lanta as a company.
Nui Bay
This is a lovely small bay with a beach perfect for a beach day. There is a little restaurant on the sand which had great Pad Thai, and the vibes there were amazing.
Nui Bay
Kantiang Bay Beach
This is one of the more popular beaches because it is within walking distance of the town near the south of the island. It was very pretty and had good restaurants and bars on it which made for a great atmosphere.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
These recommendations are for places near my hostel in the south of Koh Lanta. There weren’t that many options because it isn’t very populated, but all of these had great vegan and veggie options:
Drunken Sailors
K Himalaya Indian Restaurant
A La Carte by Auntie Nang
Khao Sok National Park
Khao Sok National Park was what brought me to the south of Thailand. However, I learned things about this place on the trip that I want to share before I tell you about it. Khao Sok Lake is actually a reservoir which was created on land on which people used to live. Thousands of families were displaced in this process, and they are barely compensated adequately for the massive upheaval that they faced. Furthermore, the ecosystem was massively altered: flooding forests, destroying animal habitats, and creating water so stagnant that fish can no longer survive in much of it. None of this information was communicated to us before we went on the tour, and it honestly made me uncomfortable knowing that all this happened and now the place is filled with tourists enjoying themselves on the lake. Nevertheless, there have been positive tourism outcomes which provide jobs for local people, which deserve to be mentioned.
I booked my Khao Sok tour with Smiley Lakehouse, and they are definitely one of the best options out there. The one night tour cost 2500 baht (approx. £56),and they also offer a transfer to your next destination after the tour. The rooms are floating bungalows - they are basic but have two beds, a private bathroom with shower, toilet, and sink, and they are very clean. There are USB chargers and a fan, but no air conditioning. It does get hot at night, but it is bearable.
The Smiley Bungalows
The tour starts in Khao Sok town, where most people spend one night before the trip starts. You drive around 1 hour to the national park and pay the entrance fee there (it was 200 baht (approx. £4.50), but is going up to 300 baht (approx. £6.70), plus a mandatory 40 baht (approx. 90p) lake cleaning fee). From there, you are put on a longtail boat and sail about an hour to the lake houses where you check in and have lunch. They cater very well for veggies and vegans.
We had free time in the afternoon to swim and kayak before leaving on an evening safari to look for monkeys and other animals (elephants if you’re lucky). Dinner was ready when we got back, and then we had more time to relax.
Most people were in bed early because you’re up at 6am to see the sunrise and the mist rising over the lake before your morning safari. After the safari, you have breakfast and check out and then head out on your jungle trek. This was not as strenuous as it sounds - most of us wore sandals and they were perfect. It was about 6 km, flat, through the forest. You walk across some streams and through the trees to the NamTalu cave. You walk through water in this cave and even swim at times which was a lot of fun and very refreshing. It was definitely a highlight for me. We then headed back to the boats, had lunch at the lakehouse, and packed up ready to head back to the pier.
It was a good experience, but knowing what I now know about the history of the area, I wouldn’t do it again, and I struggle to recommend it to people. Scenery wise, it had beautiful parts, but much of the limestone cliffs can be found in many other areas of Thailand and southeast Asia, so it might not be worth the stop if you’re doing it as part of a bigger trip. Definitely something to keep in mind - if you want to spend more time on the islands or in the north, I would say skip Khao Sok.
Kanchanaburi
I took the overnight train from Surat Thani to Bangkok, and then got a bus to Kanchanaburi. It was only 3 hours in a minivan, and they go every hour, so it is very accessible. I stayed 2 nights in Kanchanaburi and it was definitely enough.
Bridge on the River Kwai
Things to Do
Visit the River Kwai Bridge
This is the infamous bridge from the movie Bridge on the River Kwai. It has historical significance given the trade links with Myanmar, and you can head to the Thai Burma Railway Museum to find out more. The bridge itself is walkable and is very cool to see. You can walk along the tracks for a while, and they have some steam trains to look at as well. It’s completely free to see and isn’t too busy.
Erawan National Park
Erawan National Park, with its seven tier waterfall, is probably the main attraction of Kanchanaburi. You can take a bus from the central bus station to the park. The first one is at 8am and it costs 60 baht (approx. £1.35) for a one-way ticket. It takes 1.5-2 hours to get there, and I managed to use the same ticket on the way back. I’m not sure if it’s allowed, but I just showed it to the bus driver and he let me on. Otherwise, you can buy another one on the bus.
The public bus from Kanchanaburi to Erawan
You buy a ticket at the park entrance for 300 baht (approx. £6.70), and then you get dropped at the visitor centre where you start the walk to the waterfalls. Unfortunately, regardless of your swimming ability, you also have to rent a life jacket for 20 baht, and you have to wear it in order to swim at any of the waterfalls.
Waterfall 2 at Erawan
There are seven waterfalls to see, and the furthest one is 2 km from the visitor centre. It is a tough uphill hike to get to the top one, so I recommend heading up there first and then making your way back down, it’s much more rewarding. Each waterfall is stunning, and the best stops to swim are at numbers 3, 5, and 7. Waterfalls 2 and 1 are the busiest, and there is barely anywhere to swim at 4 and 6. There are lots of fish in the water which do nibble at your legs and feet - it’s just a bit annoying but nothing to worry about.
Waterfall 3 at Erawan
You can get food in the park for fairly cheap, but there aren’t many options, especially veggie/vegan ones, so bring snacks or your own lunch.
Where to Stay
Kanchanaburi isn’t really visited by backpackers, so none of the hotels are very social, but I stayed at WesTory and it was so nice, probably one of the fanciest hostels I’ve ever stayed in, and it was so cheap. Very modern, clean, and felt like a hotel. It was in a great location, only about a 15 minute walk from the bus station.
Where to Eat (vegan friendly places)
I only ate at one place during my time in Kanchanaburi, called On’s Thai Isaan Vegetarian. It was amazing. I tried to find some food at the night market but wasn’t successful, so I recommend heading there or nearby for the best food.
Head back up to Bangkok for your final nights to do everything you didn't do the first time around!
Budget
My daily average in Thailand was £35 per day. This included food, accommodation, local transportation, activities, and my SIM card. With scuba diving included (Open Water certification and three fun dives), the daily average went up to £43. The north of Thailand is much cheaper than Bangkok and the south. For hostels, expect to pay between £5 and £20 a night, the upper end of that being hostels in Bangkok and the south. Food can be less than £2 per meal in the north, bit will be more in the south, at between £3-£7 per meal.I pe
This is a lot of information but I hope it helps you plan your ideal trip to Thailand. As always, take care of the places you visit and leave only your footprints behind :)
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