New Zealand’s South Island is one of my favourite places on the planet, and I had the best time backpacking through it. I spent a month there but could easily have stayed another. To save money, I opted to do this entire route without a car, which meant I relied solely on New Zealand’s bus network. I have outlined below exactly how I did this, as well as my itinerary and everything I got up to!
Budget
My daily average in New Zealand was £75/day. This included accommodation, food, transport, and activities, with some expensive tours (£150+) thrown into the mix (Milford Sound and others). This did not include internal or international flights. I cooked pretty much every meal in the kitchens of the hostels I was staying in to save money, with only a few exceptions. You could definitely cut this down by being extra stringent with hostel choices, activities, and transport, but to get a good experience, make sure you budget enough. New Zealand is not cheap!
Getting Around without a Car
To backpack around New Zealand without a car, you’ll need to use the Intercity bus network. Honestly, I cannot fault this service at all. I had a great experience on these buses; they were always on time, clean, and stopped often for toilet and meal breaks. Some of the long-distance buses I took even stopped for us to head up to some scenic viewpoints, lakes, and waterfalls. The buses were also rarely full - the only times I didn’t have a double seat to myself were between Christchurch and Lake Tekapo, and Queenstown and Wanaka, as they are such busy routes. It’s mostly backpackers on these buses, but they aren’t as social as the Kiwi Experience buses. That being said, I did meet some great people on them, and my experience in hostels was very social.
Lake Hawea - Intercity stopped for us to see this view!
Intercity offers various bus passes which will save you money if you follow an itinerary similar to the one I lay out below. You can do the whole of the route below with the Intercity Bus, plus the Better Bus from Nelson to Abel Tasman return. Where it’s tricky, I have outlined some other options.
Itinerary
Here is my New Zealand South Island itinerary to help you see the highlights of the country!
Auckland
I am throwing Auckland in here because unless you’re flying from Australia, it’s likely that your international flight lands in Auckland. However, if you can get to Wellington or Christchurch to start your South Island route, I’d recommend it. If you land in the Auckland airport, the cheapest way to the city centre is by bus. You need to purchase an AT HOP card in the arrivals area - you can’t use your contactless card as I found out! They cost NZ$5 and then you add as much money you need on it right then and there. Head out of the terminal and wait for the bus to come by.
I spent one day in Auckland and it was probably a day too long! If you have a day or two here, I’d recommend the following activities.
Go Up the Sky Tower
For a view of the city from above, head to the landmark Sky Tower. You can buy a ticket on the door, and they cost NZ$38. You can go up to several different levels and get panoramic views of the city and the ocean beyond. If you’re feeling adventurous you can also try the Sky Jump from the top of the Tower. Book this in advance. The views aren’t the most spectacular, but it’s a good way to get your bearings and see where you are.
Walk up Mt Eden
A little outside the city centre is Mt Eden, more of a hill than a mountain, that gives you views over the city. You can use your AT HOP card to get the bus to the trailhead, and take the short walk up. You walk around some volcanic craters which are pretty cool, and can see the ocean from up there as well. It’s a great way to get into nature.
Walk the Waterfront
The Auckland waterfront is a great place to walk, with boats in the harbour, and walkways around the docks. It’s not a long walk, but a great place to spend some time. The harbour is also full of bars and restaurants.
Waiheke Island
I unfortunately didn’t get the chance to get over to Waiheke, but by heading down to the waterfront ferry terminal, you can buy a ticket to the island and hop on it for a day walking around there. There are plenty of coastal hikes and places to explore on the island and it makes a great day trip from Auckland.
Christchurch
Welcome to the South Island! I flew into Christchurch from the North Island and really enjoyed it as a city. Two days is enough to explore it, but add a day if you can get to Akaroa.
Take a Walking Tour
I did a walking tour of the city through Walk Christchurch, which was great. While hitting all the hotspots in the city, we got a really informative overview of the history of the earthquakes and how Christchurch is moving on and adapting to being on such a damaging fault line. The tour included the earthquake memorial, which was beautiful. I would highly recommend it.
Visit Riverside Market
The tour ended near Riverside Market, which is a great place to get food. There are so many options and it has a great atmosphere all day and night. Even if you don’t eat here, take a walk through it.
Quake City Museum
This is a small but very informative museum about the 2011 earthquakes in Christchurch. It includes an incredible video of local people talking about their experiences of the day of the earthquake and beyond. There are interactive displays and great information about it all.
Day Trip to Akaroa
If you can rent a car for a day, or find a car share through Facebook groups or your hostel, I highly recommend taking a day trip to Akaroa. This is a very cute French town where you can take a boat tour on the stunning Akaroa harbour. The harbour is home to Hector's Dolphins, the smallest dolphin in the world, and the only one endemic to New Zealand. And they are adorable. We were so lucky to see so many of them during our trip. We also got sightings of a few penguins and seals. Swimming with dolphins trips are also very popular, where you get to get up close and personal with them.
Lake Tekapo
The next stop on your South Island trip is the unbelievable Lake Tekapo. This is the 10th largest lake in New Zealand and is famous for its blue colour and shoreline of lupins. I spent 3 nights here, but 2 is enough if you don’t do a day trip to Mt Cook - more on that below!
Head down to the Lakefront
This lake honestly blew me away. I spent so long sitting down by the lake admiring the blue of the water and the snow-capped mountains in the distance. The lupins start coming out in November, so I was lucky to see them as well. But don’t expect the huge fields of lupins that you probably see on social media! It’s more of a few little clusters and everyone is standing right in front of them for that perfect photo. I found there to be more on the lakeshore to the left, walking clockwise around the lake. It is still absolutely gorgeous though, and I’d love to go in the winter to see it all snowy too! If you can head down to the lake for sunrise, you will be treated to something special. Sunset is also incredible.
The lakefront is also home to the famous Church of the Good Shepherd, so take a walk to see that too.
Hikes Around Lake Tekapo
Mt John Hike: this hike isn’t too long or strenuous but provides great views of the lake. It starts uphill but then flattens out and is mostly downhill after the summit. It goes past the observatory and down over the other side, where you get views of Lake Tekapo and the smaller Lake Alta next to it. The trail doubles back along the lake shore and takes you back to the starting point near the edge of town. The whole big loop will take you about 3 hours.
There is another trail on the opposite side of the lake to Mt John. It is a flat path right along the shoreline which is equally stunning and completely deserted. I didn’t go the whole length of the trail but from what I saw, it keeps going for a good while!
The view from Mt John
Star Gazing
Lake Tekapo is known for its exceptional stargazing opportunities. You can opt to go to one of the observatories in the area for a large fee, which has the advantage of using the powerful telescopes and having a guide to explain the night sky to you. However, if these experiences are out of your budget (as they were for me), you can’t go wrong just heading down to the lakefront and looking up. The stars are absolutely stunning.
Day Trip to Mt Cook National Park
Lake Pukaki
If you have an extra day, I highly recommend doing a day trip to Mt Cook. I booked this on Get Your Guide as I didn’t rent a car. There are no car rentals in Lake Tekapo. The tour stopped by Lake Pukaki, the lake which features on many photos of New Zealand’s South Island with Mt Cook at the end of it. This view was breathtaking. We then drove to the National Park to hike the famous Hooker Valley Track. Although busy, this trail was unreal. It is not strenuous at all, and takes 2-3 hours depending on your speed and how long you spend at Hooker Lake at the end of the trail. It crosses rivers and has incredible views of Mt Cook itself. Definitely up there with the most stunning hikes I have ever done.
If you have your own car or have more days and can take the Intercity bus, I would spend a few days in Mt Cook National Park itself. There is a brand new YHA in Mt Cook village to stay in, and there are plenty more hikes in the region to fill your days with. Be prepared though, because there are no supermarkets in the village, so stock up beforehand. It’s very remote!
Wanaka
Wanaka was one of my favourite places in New Zealand. A smaller version of Queenstown, it provides you with all the incredible views and activities without being overcrowded or too touristy. I spent 2 days here but could have stayed longer; it was such a laid-back town with lots to do.
Hiking in Wanaka
Glendhu Bay: the trail to Glendhu Bay runs along Lake Wanaka. It’s a fairly long hike but not too strenuous, some up and down but mostly flat. It’s also incredibly quiet - I only passed a few dog walkers on the way. The views were fantastic the whole way, and the lake was so peaceful. It took me around 5 hours total, there and back, with a break for lunch.
Roy’s Peak: if you’ve seen pictures of New Zealand, the view from the top of Roy’s Peak is probably one of them. I recommend doing this hike for sunrise. It takes about 2 hours to summit, and the trailhead is about a 10-15 minute drive from town. As I didn’t have a car, I booked a shared taxi with Yellow Taxis to take me there. It cost around NZ$7 per person one way. It was absolutely freezing at the top waiting for sunrise, so be prepared with layers and blankets. I am not exaggerating! I was there in November and the ground at the top was frozen. Dry clothes to prevent your sweat cooling you down would help as well. As expected, the golden hues of sunrise over Lake Wanaka and the mountains was incredible. Heading down took under 2 hours, and I ended up hitching a ride back to town with some travellers. You can also call the taxi company again if you’d prefer not to do that, or walk back along the Glendhu Bay trail, although this will add another couple of hours to your morning.
Isthmus Peak: this mountain is located a little further outside of Wanaka town, and you most likely need a car or taxi to access the trailhead. Unfortunately I did not get the chance to do it because of this, but have heard from some that it was more impressive than Roy’s Peak!
That Wanaka Tree
Every picture of Wanaka features the famous tree standing in the lake. It is a very overhyped landmark, and in fact if you keep walking down the Glendhu Bay trail, you’ll see many more ‘Wanaka Trees’ standing in the water. But it’s worth taking a look at anyway, especially as it's near the start of the Glendhu Bay trail. You won’t miss it as it always has a crowd of people standing next to it on the beach. Please don’t go and swim up to the tree! It has been severely damaged because of people doing this.
Adventure Activities
Lake Wanaka is host to many lake-based activities such as kayaking, paddle boarding, and boating. You can also go swimming in the lake - it is freezing but worth it! Skydiving is also an option here and I don’t think the views would disappoint.
Ice Cream
I highly recommend heading over to Patagonia Ice Cream, located right by the lakefront beach. The selection of ice cream and desserts is incredible, including lots of vegan options!
Queenstown
Known as the Adventure Capital of New Zealand, Queenstown has endless things to do. It’s a fairly large city with an international airport and decent nightlife. You could easily fill four days here, and more if you do more of the activities on offer.
Hiking in Queenstown
The Ben Lomond Summit from the Saddle
Ben Lomond: this is a moderate to tough hike up to the top of Ben Lomond, the mountain that looms over the city. It took me just over 3 hours to go up, and 2.5 hours down, from the bottom of the cable car (which you can reach on foot from Queenstown city). If you take the cable car up, you’ll shave off about an hour of the hike which covers the switchback section in the forest. The trail to the saddle of Ben Lomond is well maintained and wide, but after that, it becomes a bit rougher and you’ll have a couple small scrambles in the last 45 minutes. The views from the top are worth it though, and you will see a lot more from the summit than if you just stop at the saddle. It might be possible to take the cable car down without paying for it if you walk into the terminal and look like you know what you’re doing, but don’t take my word for it! By then it’s not long to the bottom anyway.
Queenstown Hill: this is a short and easy hike behind Queenstown itself. You can walk to the trailhead from the city. It’s mostly forested until a bit higher up where you get views over Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, and Ben Lomond.
Basket of Dreams on Queenstown Hill
Adventure Activities
The world’s first bungee jump was in Queenstown and it’s still in use today. The world’s highest bungee jump is also in Queenstown, along with several others, so you won’t be lacking if you’re looking to do that! There are also zipline courses through the trees, skydiving, paragliding, and canyoning available. These activities are not cheap though, you are looking at NZ$200+ for most of them, regardless of who you book with. There are plenty of agencies you’ll see walking around town to get prices and book through.
Skipper's Canyon
The Shotover Jet is also a staple of Queenstown. A powerful jet boat takes you down the Shotover River, through canyons and rocky areas. The drivers are very skilled and spin you in 360s. It’s a lot of fun. To get to some of the jet boat sites, you might get to drive down the famous Skipper’s Canyon Road, the 17th most dangerous road in the world which is literally on the edge of a cliff. Don’t worry too much though - the buses are all on a schedule so that you won’t cross paths with anyone else! The price of the Shotover Jet again is around NZ$200.
Swimming in Lake Wakatipu is also a staple of Queenstown. It is predictably freezing cold, but very refreshing and there is a great atmosphere down by the lake. It’s easy to spend an afternoon there.
Day Trip to Glenorchy and the Routeburn Track
Along the Queenstown - Glenorchy Road
Because of the airport, it is fairly easy to rent a car in Queenstown. I went through Yes! Rentals and found a very good deal. If you can rent one for a day, I highly recommend taking a day trip to Glenorchy to hike a part of the Routeburn Track, one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. Even if you don’t hike, the drive there is worth it - easily one of the most beautiful roads I’ve ever driven. You’ll have to drive a little bit off-road to reach the trailhead, so double check your rental company allows this, and you can park for free. In a day you can hike a good section of the trail. It’s not too strenuous and goes through the forest along the river. The colour of the water is something else, and the whole walk is breathtaking. You can make the turnaround point the waterfall or one of the huts along the route, depending on how fast you’re moving.
If you have more time or are looking for something a little easier, you can drive to Glenorchy Lagoon where there are boardwalks with fantastic mountain views. There are also lupins in the spring season in this area, and you can visit the famous red Glenorchy hut. In terms of views, though, I would recommend doing the Routeburn over this boardwalk trail!
Food In Queenstown
Fergburger: this burger place is a Queenstown classic, and the queues down the street prove it. Be prepared to wait, but the wait will be worth it. They have all kinds of burgers on offer, including lots of veggie and vegan options. I had the tofu burger and it was incredible!
Winnie’s: Winnie’s Gourmet Pizza Bar is another famous spot and has great pizza. Later at night the place turns into a bar with great music and good vibes.
More Things to do in Queenstown
If you are looking for more to do during your time in Queenstown, the nearby Arrowtown provides a great day trip. You can take the bus there and spend a day walking around the little town and forest around it.
Glenorchy Hut
Milford Sound: if you decide to skip Te Anau (which I don’t recommend because it is stunning!), you can take a day tour to Milford Sound from Queenstown. It’s the same tour as from Te Anau, you just leave earlier, get back later, and have more bus time. But it’s very feasible. More on this day trip below.
Views along the Routeburn Track
Te Anau
Te Anau is a very small town on Lake Te Anau, the second largest lake in New Zealand. While the town might not have anything special, the surrounding nature is incredible. I spent three full days here, including a hike on the Kepler Track and day tours of both Milford and Doubtful Sounds.
Marakura Yacht Club Wharf, Te Anau, at sunrise
Hiking in Te Anau
The Kepler Track, one of the Great Walks, starts pretty much in the town of Te Anau. If you have a full day, hiking the section of the track up to the summit of Mt Luxmore is doable in that time. You can take a water taxi across the lake to Brod Bay to shave off an hour of the walk if you are pressed for time or want to save your legs. Book this in advance through Kepler Water Taxi online - they have a boat every hour in the morning, and then back in the afternoons, and it costs NZ$25 per adult for a return trip. The trail starts uphill in the forest until you break above the tree line about an hour in. From the tree line, it’s fairly flat to the Luxmore Hut, and then it’s incline up to the summit. The views up there are well worth the climb. The round trip for the hike (taking the water taxi) took me about 4.5 - 5 hours including lunch at the summit.
Luxmore Hut above the Clouds
Milford Sound
If Milford Sound is on your bucket list, I strongly recommend taking the tour from Te Anau rather than Queenstown. It firstly won’t be as early of a start, with some tours in Queenstown leaving at 5am, but it also will be less time sitting on the bus. I booked my tour with Pure Milford for £80 on Get Your Guide, and it was great. It included all transportation, lots of scenic stops along the road, lunch, and a cruise on Milford Sound. I recommend choosing the earlier option if possible, to avoid bigger crowds and more boats later in the day. The scenery is out of this world, and I was lucky enough to have Milford Sound in full sunshine. It’s pretty rare, but rain or shine this place is magical.
Doubtful Sound
Lake Manapouri
The much less visited Doubtful Sound is located nearby Milford Sound, and in my opinion was much more impressive. I booked a tour through Real NZ in their office in the town of Te Anau. Again, I recommend going with the earlier option. While it was twice the price of my Milford Sound tour, it was worth it. It was an earlier start and we got taken to the harbour at Lake Manapouri, which we crossed as the morning mist was lifting off the lake. It was gorgeous. We got transferred to a bus on the other side, taken up and over a mountain pass which had a great view of Doubtful Sound, and then headed back down the other side to board the cruise on the Sound itself. We were treated to a visit by several dolphins, seals, and got to experience the ‘Sound of Silence’ which was unforgettable. I cannot recommend this enough.
Franz Josef
The small town of Franz Josef is the gateway to the famous Franz Josef glacier and is home to all of the trailheads that give you the incredible views of it. However: this is the rainiest part of New Zealand, so be prepared for clouds and fog that will completely block your view of the glacier. I unfortunately had two days of weather that meant I never actually saw it. If you can, be flexible so that you can extend your stay here if necessary. There are enough things to do while you wait! Please note that there is only one supermarket in Franz Josef, and it’s pretty small, so be prepared if you are planning to cook while you are there.
Thunder Creek Falls on the road to Franz Josef
Hiking in Franz Josef
Two easily accessible hikes to see Franz Josef Glacier are the Forest Walk and Sentinel Rock Walk. They are both right next to each other and neither takes longer than 15 minutes to the viewpoint. There are lots of little paths in this area, and you can also walk to these trailheads from town in about 45 minutes.
The best view I got of Franz Josef Glacier...
A longer and more strenuous hike is the Alex Knob trail, which takes you up to get a view down onto the glacier. Only do this if it’s good weather! It provides great views of the glacial valley.
Heli Hiking on the Glacier
While this was out of my budget, if you want to get up close and personal with Franz Josef Glacier, you can opt to do a heli-hike on the ice itself. You get flown up in a helicopter, make a landing on the glacier, and walk for a few hours. Note that helicopters only fly in good weather. Prices for this range from £350-£700.
Monkey Creek on the road to Milford Sound
See Kiwis at the West Coast Wildlife Centre
While the weather was terrible, one of the indoor activities available in the town of Franz Josef is going to see the infamous Kiwi birds at the West Coast Wildlife Centre. You can walk in and buy a ticket for NZ$30 (if you stay at some hostels in town, including Glow Worm, you get a discount on your ticket). You head into the dark room where they have kiwi birds to go look at. No photos are allowed but watching these animals is incredible. I loved this experience.
Quad Biking
Because you’re going to get muddy anyway, quad biking is a great activity in Franz Josef, whatever the weather. You are taken off-road into the forest and get a full quad biking experience in nature.
Abel Tasman National Park
Abel Tasman National Park remains one of my favourite places on this planet. It is drop-dead gorgeous. If you aren’t doing the full Abel Tasman Coast Track, stay at least 2 nights to experience the place fully and hike at least part of it. Logistically, this place is difficult to get to by bus, so read below on how to do it.
Getting to Abel Tasman National Park
The nearest city to Abel Tasman is Nelson, which is well serviced by Intercity buses. There is only one company offering buses from Nelson to Marahau (the town at the entrance to Abel Tasman): Better Bus. The route from Nelson to Marahau/ Abel Tasman only runs in the morning in order to get you to Marahau for the first water taxis of the day, so you may have to stay overnight in Nelson before. Likewise, the route from Marahau/ Abel Tasman to Nelson only runs in the afternoon and evening, after the last water taxis arrive back in town. Plan your accommodation accordingly - I made this mistake! It costs NZ$35 each way, and picks up and drops off at various places in Nelson and Marahau. Most of the time the driver will take you to your accommodation. The drive is approximately 1 hour.
Hiking in Abel Tasman
If you aren’t doing the approximately 5 day hike along the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, you can do sections of it in day hikes. I decided to take a water taxi from Marahau to Bark Bay which cost NZ$55, and then walked from Bark Bay back to Marahau, which was around 23km, not including offshoot paths. It is a little bit up and down but is mostly flat so is not too strenuous. The views along this trail are unreal, and the colour of the water is unmatched. There are several paths from the main track which take you to little beaches, coves, rivers, and viewpoints, and they are all incredible. It’s a very quiet area and I had most of the beaches to myself. Take your swim stuff! It is one of my favourite hikes ever.
Observation Beach - this is probably my favourite beach in the world
Kayaking
There are several companies offering kayaking excursions in the National Park, ranging from half day trips to overnight expeditions with camping. If this is something that appeals to you, the views would be second to none. These kayak trips also take you to see the famous Split Apple Rock near the start of the Park. However, if you’re just doing the kayak trip to see the Rock, I’d recommend just taking the water taxi to your hike start point instead - they all do a little spin so you can see it without paying extra!
Split Apple Rock
Open Mic Night
On Thursday nights, the only pub in Marahau hosts an open mic night where people come and sing. Pretty much the entire town is there, locals and backpackers alike, and it's an incredible vibe. Get down there if you can!
Stargazing
The National Park area is pretty far from civilization and as such the stargazing is incredible. Head down to any of the beaches and take a look up at the stars.
Wellington
Wellington is a small city but has plenty of charm. A night or two is enough to see it all.
Ride the Wellington Cable Car
The iconic Wellington Cable Car is worth the ride to get a panoramic view of the city and the ocean beyond. You can buy a ticket at the station - they have student prices, which put me out NZ$3.50. The top of the hill is also one entrance to the Botanic Gardens which are nice to walk around, and back down into the city.
Walk down Cuba Street
Cuba Street is a colourful street which has great shopping, hosting small independent shops, larger stores, cafes, and restaurants. It’s a pretty nice neighbourhood to walk around.
Where to Stay: Hostel Recommendations
Here are the best hostels for the route I have outlined. As a note, YHA was just bought by Haka House, so if you see any name changes, that’s why! You need to book these hostels a few months in advance. Two months before my trip the best options were already sold out.
Auckland: Attic Backpackers or Lylo Auckland. City hostels in New Zealand aren’t great but these two provide everything you need, are fairly social, and well located.
Christchurch: Lylo. I didn’t stay here, but heard great things from everyone who did!
Lake Tekapo: YHA Tekapo: this is a brand new place right on the lake and is gorgeous.
Wanaka: YHA or Adventure Wanaka. The YHA is great - it has a huge kitchen and a nice common area overlooking the lake. Adventure Wanaka is brand new and purpose built.
Queenstown: Adventure Q2 or Adventure. Both of these hostels are purpose built and have everything you need and more. I would avoid Nomads as it is chaotic and pretty dirty.
Te Anau: YHA. Lakefront Backpackers is also a good option, it’s just not as nice as the YHA.
Franz Josef: Glow Worm Accommodation. I loved this place. While it wasn’t brand new, it has really friendly vibes with a great social atmosphere, very comfy beds, free breakfast and free vegetable soup every night. And it has a hot tub.
Abel Tasman: Adventure Inn Marahau - this is another purpose built hostel with great vibes, featuring an amazing outdoor eating area with a fireplace and great social areas inside too.
Nelson: YHA Nelson Central. Bridge backpackers is also a good option. The Better Bus to Abel Tasman picks up and drops off right outside the YHA. and Bridge is right around the corner. Both are close to the supermarket too, and there’s a great farmer’s market right next to the YHA once a week.
Wellington: Trek Global. No hostels in Wellington are that amazing but Trek is where a lot of people stay so it’s social and close to everything. You can walk from the place where the Interislander ferry shuttle drops you about 20 minutes. There’s also a stop for the airport bus pretty much outside.
I hope this is useful and helps you realise how much of New Zealand’s South Island you can see without a car. It is one of the most impressive routes you’ll ever do - I would go back in a heartbeat. Enjoy!
A final note, as always, leave only your footprints behind. Take everything out that you brought in. New Zealand has some of the most incredible nature, let's keep it that way.
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